Arrival, Bukhara

Bukhara, Uzbekistan
29-30 September 2018.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size.)

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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A truck on the road between Khiva and Bokhara. Likely advice to any pedestrians on the right side of the road – run!

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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The sign at the restaurant at the left says “ШАШЛИК СОМСА КЕПСИ ТОВУҚ ЖИЗ”, or as you might have guessed “Shashlik Somsa Kepsi Chicken Jiz”.

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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A dome in the late afternoon light in Bukhara.

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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This looks like a sunset but the sun is well above the horizon, so it’s an exposure directly into the sun which is shining through the window in the cupola. Rather than a low light exposure, it is actually 200 ISO, 1/8,000 sec, f11.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A little later with a cloud of birds in the distance. These two were probably taken at dinner.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

An hour later, a wedding group on the streets.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This is above the main portal of the Nadir Divan-begi Madrasa.

It was built as a caravanserai (prosaically, if you like, a motel with camels instead of cars) but either dedicated as or later converted to a madrassah (or school, often religious) and the architecture more resembles a caravanserai than a madrassah. It was built during the reign of Imam Quli Khan (1611 to 1642, a time of prosperity and peace) and built by his Vizier Nadir Divan-begi, after whom it is named. In the image above, the sun has a face as do the serpents below him. Traditionally, Islam strongly disapproved of depiction of humans and animals but this was relaxed in the Persian-influenced world in the early seventeenth century.

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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This image and the next eight are also in the Nadir Divan-begi Madrassah.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Wall and ceiling details…..
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A silk weaver.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Discussion of potential purchases, perhaps.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking up….
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A variety of textile wonders on offer…..
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This is the ancient Magoki-Attori Mosque.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This southern entrance dates to the 12th century and you can see the trace of carved blue majolica tiles.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

There was originally a Zoroastrian fire temple and later a Buddhist temple. The Moslem religion arrived about 650AD but its takeover was gradual. At one time both Jews and Moslems were said to have worshiped here concurrently though this may have been at different times of the day. Bukhara burnt down in 927 and the mosque was built or rebuilt at this time. It was rebuilt in the 12th century using the design of the previous mosque and restored in the 14th and 17th centuries and the 1930s and 1970s. It had to be dug out in the 1930s because over the years it had sunk below rising levels of sand.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest mosques in central Asia.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Carved doorway.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking up in the top level, from the 1930s.
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Not far away is the foundations of an ancient structure but I can’t remember what our guide said and I can not find information on what it was.

(The edge of the Toqi Telpak Furushon Trading Dome is in the background at the far right. We go there in the next post.)
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Architecture, Art, Bukhara, Ceramics, History, Landscape, Magoki-Attori Mosque, Nadir Divan Begi Madrassah, Photography, Silk, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

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6 comments on “Arrival, Bukhara

  1. Anna says:

    Wonderful photos as always Murray.

    Liked by 2 people

  2. leggypeggy says:

    Thanks for this revisit to Bukhara.

    Liked by 2 people

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