Islamic Museum and Hippodrome

Istanbul, 8 October 2018.

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(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC at least.)

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It’s an Indian!

All kitted up to travel, but no external gear lever. How can that be? (Indian was the first US motorcycle manufacturer, dating from 1901 until 1953 when they went bankrupt. I hadn’t realised Indians have been in production again since 2014).

(In the first images, we are walking back from the ferry ride in the last post).

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Inside a spice shop with some curious teas….

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Walking alongside an ancient wall.

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The ancient debris beside the road may be stray remains from the Great Palace of Constantinople.

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A closer look at some of the curious ancient debris.

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Two women walking beside an ancient wall.

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Doorway to another place and time?

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I presume this is from an entrance arch to a mosque, perhaps Hagia Sophia.

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Street-side displays.

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A North African Koran from the 13th century.

(We are now in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts).

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A Koran from the Mamaluk period of Egypt, c. 1380.

(Egypt was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in 1517).

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An illustrated book from the Timurid Empire 1370-1507.

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A Koran from the Safavid period in Shiraz (Persia), 1591-1592.

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Kaaba door cover, Ottoman period, 19th century.

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Koran, Ottoman period, 1526.

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Double wooden doors, Karaman, early 15th century.

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Top: Wooden window shutters, Konya, early 14th century.

Bottom: Cenotaph and coffin, Anatolian Seljuk period, 1521.

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Illustrated book, prepared by Zubdet’ut Tevarih for Sultan Murad III, 1583.

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This is a view from a balcony of the museum, looking past the Obelisk of Theodosius (and the Hippodrome) to the Blue Mosque.

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Top of the Blue Mosque.

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Remains of some of the terracing around the Hippodrome, now below ground level.

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This is what the remains of the Hippodrome looked like in 1600. It was already in ruins by the time the Ottomans invaded in 1453. Constantinople never really recovered from its sack by the Latins of the Fourth Crusade in 1204.

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This is what the area looked like in East Roman times. In front of the Hippodrome is the massive Great Palace. This included protected walkways for the Emperor to attend Hagia Sophia (far right) and the Hippodrome.

You can also get a better idea of the shape of the Hippodrome here. It had a U-shape with terraced seating that could accommodate 30,000. There were entrance/ exit lanes at one end and participants could race laps around the long thin spina in the centre. Though the Hippodrome was never built over, its stone was used as material for other buildings.

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Near the entrance gate end, looking towards the Obelisk of Theososius and the Walled Obelisk, which lay along the spina.

Originally there were also many other statues of gods, animals and heroes. For example, the Venetians looted four gilded copper statues of horses, which were incorporated in the facade of St Mark’s Basilica in Venice. The original level for the Hippodrome is two metres underground.

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Looking now in the other direction, towards Hagia Sophia.

The chariot races were very popular and the crowd divided into blue and green factions, which could make crowds of English football hooligans look very tame indeed. In 532, the factions united in riots, the Nika riots, that burned much of the city. The main precipitating cause was high taxation due to Justinian’s wars. In the end, Justinian paid off members of the blue faction just as the assembled factions were electing a new Emperor and then sent in General Belisarius with the army, who sealed off the entrances to the Hippodrome and massacred all who remained, said to be around 30,000. The East Romans had a different concept of democracy in those days. The blue and green factions were never as powerful again.

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The Obelisk of Theososius and some minarets of the Blue Mosque.

Emperor Theodosius brought this obelisk to Constantinple in 390. He cut it in three and only the top third survives. It was originally at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor from the reign of Thutmose III at around 1490 BC.

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In its day, the Hippodrome was alive with excitement, with thousands of spectators watching chariot races, with teams of four hippos thundering around towing their chariots. It was quite dangerous as riders could fall off their chariots and be trampled by the hippos or be dragged behind, tangled in the reigns.

The Hippodrome was about 450 metres long and 130 metres wide. Races were usually for seven laps and of course, all the turns were hairpin turns which must have created its own opportunities for carnage.

Hippos hence Hippodrome. Not hippopotami though, hippos is the Greek word for horse. (Hippopotami are actually water horses though I don’t recommend trying to ride one).

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Looking up to the top of the Walled Obelisk.

This is not an Egyptian obelisk, it was built by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus in the tenth century. It was originally covered in gilded bronze plaques but these were looted by Latin troops of the Fourth Crusade.

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The Serpent Column in the front and the Obelisk of Theodosius in the rear.

We are near the U-shape at the end of the Hippodrome, looking back along the line of the spina, and the minarets in the distance are from Hagia Sophia. The Serpent Column marks one of the two turning points at each end of the spina.  Its base (not shown) is at the original ground level of the Hippodrome.

The Serpent Column was originally erected in Delphi in 478BC to commemorate the victory of an alliance of Greek city-states against Persia at Plataea. This was the final land victory and the Persians never invaded the Greek mainland again.

Constantine brought it to the Hippodrome. It had three snake heads radiating out from the top. Originally there was a golden tripod and a golden cauldron surmounting it but they were removed to fund a war about a hundred years after it was erected in Delphi. It survived with the snake heads until about 1700, when it was thrown down and the heads broken off. Part of one of them survives in the Istanbul Archæological museum.

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A family sitting on a low fence, with Hagia Sopha in the background.

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Bosphorous Cruise

Istanbul, 8 October 2018.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC at least.)

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The Bosphorous is the strait between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara.  We opted for an afternoon cruise to see Istanbul from the water.

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Galata Tower.

The Galata Tower was built in 1348 by the Genoese colony in Constantinople, replacing an earlier Galata Tower from 528.  The current tower was the tallest building in Constantinople when it was built.  It has been damaged several times by fires and storms and rebuilt.

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Tug boat?

It says on the side of the cabin “İstanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi” or “The Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality”.

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Nusretiye Mosque

A baroque-style mosque, built 1823 to 1826 by Sultan Mahmut II.  (Perhaps he said to his architect “Let’s go for broke!”)

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Built by Sulieman the Magnificent in 1559 in honour of his sons Şehzade Mehmed and Şehzade Cihangir, both of whom died in their early twenties.   Damaged on several occasions by earthquakes and fires and last rebuilt in 1889.

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Dwellings of the local population.

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Dolmabahçe Palace.

This is is the largest palace in Turkey, covering area of 11 acres with 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 baths and 68 toilets.  It was built between 1843 and 1856 by Sultan Abdulmejid I.  As well as the residence of sultans until the sultanate was abolished in 1924, it was the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and from 1909 to 1922.

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I think this must also be part of Dolmabahçe Palace.

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A wider view of Dolmabahçe Palace, showing the ferry we were travelling on.

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Entrance way of Ciragan Palace Kempinski.

Ciragan Palace was built by Sultan AbdulAziz between 1863 and 1867. AbdulAziz lived in the palace until he was deposed in 1876 and died mysteriously soon after.  His successor Murad II only reigned for 93 days until he was deposed for mental illness and he then lived in the palace under house arrest until he died in 1904.  The palace was gutted by fire in 1910 but was purchased by a Japanese corporation and was renovated in 1992 and 2007 and is now a five-star hotel.  A night in the Sultan’s Suite costs $US35,000.

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Camlica Mosque.

This is the largest mosque in Turkey and was opened in March 2019, five months after I took this picture.

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This is the Vahdettin Pavilion. 

The original timber building was constructed in the late nineteenth or early twentieth century by Sultan Abdul Hamid II and given to his brother, Prince Mehmed Vahdettin.  Mehmed became the last sultan, Mehmad VI, from 1918 to 1922.  When he was forced to leave the country in 1922, he gave the property to one of his odalisques (maid serving the harem).  Prime Minister Ozal started a reconstruction in 1989 that was abandoned when he died in 1993.  It was later rebuilt by Erdogan but in concrete with no attention to the original design.  It now servers as a Prime Ministerial residence and state guest house.

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An interesting architectural assembly at the water’s edge.

At a rough guess, I would say this is neither a palace nor a mosque.

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The Consulate General of the Arab Republic of Egypt.

Egypt was part of the Ottoman Empire from 1517 to 1914.  This was built for the mother of Abbas II, the last Ottoman Khedive of Egypt and Sudan.

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Anatolian Fortress.

The Anatolian Fortress was built between 1393 and 1394 by Ottoman Sultan Bayezid I, in preparation for a siege of Byzantine Constantinople.  The siege did not succeed because Bayezid was defeated and killed by Timur (Tamerlane) in 1402 at the Battle of Ankara, which led to an Ottoman civil war.  Constantinople held out for another sixty years.

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Küçüksu Pavilion.

Küçüksu Pavilion was built as a summer hunting lodge for Ottoman Sultans in 1857.  It is now a museum.

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Rumeli Fortress.

This and following images show sections of Rumeli Fortress and finally there is an overall view.

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Rumeli Fortress was built be Ottoman Sultan Murad II from 1452 to 1452 to blockade shipping in concert with the Anatolian Fortress on the other side of the Bosphorous. This was part of the final siege of Constantinople.  Passing ships were levied a toll and a Venetian ship that did not stop was sunk by cannonfire and the surviving crew beheaded.  Constantinople fell in 1453.

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Rumeli Fortress and Faith Sultan Mehmet Bridge.

The fortress and the bridge are here because this is the narrowest part of the Bosphorous, at only 660 metres.

In 480BC, Xerxes crossed from Asia Minor in his ill-fated attempt at an invasion of Greece, including Athens and Sparta.  He did not cross here though; it was further south, past the Sea of Marmara at the Hellespont.  The strait there was much wider but perhaps he didn’t want to walk around the Sea of Marmara or maybe the currents were more favourable.  He lashed together 360 boats to make one pontoon bridge and 314 to make another.  An earlier attempt had been destroyed by a storm and by the time the remnants of his army returned, these bridges had been destroyed also by another storm.

The Hellespont is now called the Dardanelles and it was here that troops from Britain, Australia and New Zealand landed in 1915 at Gallipoli in another unsuccessful invasion attempt.

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Overall view of Rumeli Fortress.

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The Bosphorous remains a strategic sea route.

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Beylerbeyi Palace Bathing Pavilion.

Beylerbeyi Palace was built from 1861 to 1863 as a summer residence for sultans and a place to entertain visiting heads of state.  What we see here though, is one of the two bathing pavilions.

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Üryanizade Ahmet Esat Efendi Camii.

A wooden mosque, built in 1860.

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Büyük Mecidiye Mosque (Ortaköy Mosque).

Ortaköy Mosque was built between 1854  and 1856.  Its original brick dome proved unstable and was replaced with a concrete one.  It has also been repaired after an earthquake in 1894 and a fire in 1987.

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Probably not a palace.

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Kuleli Sahil.

Kuleli Military High School was established in 1847 and occasionally used as a hospital but turned into a museum following an attempted military coup in 2016.

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Can’t identify this but looks old, perhaps even from East Roman times.

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Small boats must have to be careful on the Bosphorous.  Supertankers aren’t going to give way.

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Kuz Kulezi (Maiden’s Tower).

Byzantine Emperor Alexius Comnenus erected a wooden tower here in 1110.  There was also a chain that could be raised across the Bosphorous in the event of war.  It was for example used during the siege when Constantinople fell in 1453.  That tower was destroyed by an earthquake in 1509 and burned down in 1721.  Rebuilt in stone in 1763 and used as a lighthouse.  Restored several times including in 1998 for the James Bond movie The World is Not Enough.

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Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern

Istanbul, 8 October 2018.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC at least.)

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Looking up at one of the side domes.

In the morning of our second day in Istanbul, we visited the Blue Mosque, constructed between 1609 and 1616.

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A wider view.

The Blue Mosque was built on the foundations of the Great Palace of the East Roman Empire, though the palace was massive, much larger than the mosque.

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Recent structure inside the mosque.

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I actually found the Blue Mosque disappointing, as I was expecting much more and was expecting it to be more spectacular than Hagia Sophia and as impressive as the mosques and mausolea in Uzbekistan.  I had earlier seen a spectacular photograph from inside it but I did not see anything like that.  I suspect it was taken from he second level, which was closed.  While it is a working mosque, I suspect the main shortcomings were due to the extensive renovations scheduled from 2016 to 2020.  Probably they are now finished and the experience inside may be now quite different.

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Centre of a sub-dome.

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Looking up a wall and sub-dome.

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Visitors to the Blue Mosque.

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Looking up at one of the minor domes.

This shows how spectacular the fully restored mosque could potentially be.  The main dome is off to the right but there was no view available from directly underneath it.

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The area available for viewing was quite restrictive.

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The carpet is obviously recent.  I wonder what the original floor coverings were.

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It might have been a seventeenth century statue of a worker with a vaccuum cleaner, but since it was moving it is likely it was a real person. 

This shows how extensive the next floor is and how recent, presumably from the last fifty years.  Previously the space was probably open below the central dome.  I don’t know whether this is a measure to provide more space for worshippers or a temporary part of the renovations, but the view from above it is likely to be much more impressive than the view from below.

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At the entrance to the Blue Mosque, looking towards the Hagia Sophia.

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Basilica Cistern.

Next we visited the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground water storage, 140 by 70 metres, and contains 336 marble columns (each 9 metres high), not far from Hagia Sophia. Its name comes because it was below the square for the basilica.  A basilica is a large Roman administrative building, associated with the forum.  The water came from a forest 19 kilometres away.

It was built by Constantine and later rebuilt by Justinian following damage during the Nika Riots.  It was also restored several times in the Ottoman period.

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Medusa head.

Two of the columns have Medusa heads at their base. They are said to be sideways or upside down to neutralise their power.  Where they came from is unknown.

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Medusa head the “right” way up.

So what do they look like the “right” way up?  Here you see it.  I’ve tested it out and after looking at the image, as far as I can tell, I haven’t turned to stone.  If you have a different experience, I take no responsibility (and you’re unlikely to complain anyway).

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The other Medusa head, this one is inverted.

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… And here it is, the “right” way up.

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Topkapi Palace

Istanbul, 7 October 2018.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC at least.)

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Altar of the Hagia Irene.

From Hagia Sophia we headed off to the Topkapi Palace.  On the way we visited the Hagia Irene, even older than Hagia Sophia.

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Inside Hagia Irene.

These days it is little more than a shell, though it does have relatively recent seating and is used for concerts.  It apparently has very good acoustics.

It was the first church built in Constantinople and was completed by Constantine before the end of his reign in 337.  It was then the prime church of Constantinople until Hagia Sophia opened in 360.  It burnt down during the Nika Revolt in 532 and was rebuilt by Justinian by 548.  It was later damaged by an earthquake in 740 and restored by Constantine V.  It wasn’t converted into a mosque during Ottoman times, but was instead used as an arsenal until the nineteenth century.

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Some faint traces of artworks, probably dating to an iconoclastic period in the eighth century.

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Ancient arches.

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A section of ceiling.

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We are now at the gateway to the Topkapi Palace.

The Topkapi Palace is the Ottoman Palace, not to be confused with the Roman Imperial Palace or Great Palace, which was massive and ajoined both Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome but has now largely disappeared.  Construction started on the Topkapi Palace in 1459 and it was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1509 and a fire in 1665.   It was the main seat of government and residence of the Sultans in the 15th and 16th centuries and after wards slowly lost importance.  It became a museum in 1924.

Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in the Sultan’s residence, harem and political chambers, so I am not able to show you the most spectacular views there.

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After passing through those areas, we come out to views of the Bosphorous.

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Looking down on the Sultan’s Gardens (no doubt very different in their day) and north in the direction of the Black Sea.

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Kara Mustafa Pasha Pavilion.

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The same pavilion, looking in the opposite direction.

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Mother of pearl inlay wall decorations.

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A small viewing platform.

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Baghdad Kiosk.

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Revan Kiosk.

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Looking south, beyond the Bosphorous at the Sea of Marmara.

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Chariot relief, Cyzikus (Greek town on the south bank of the Sea of Marmara), 6th century BC.

(We are now visiting the Istanbul Archaeology Museum).

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Letter from Hittite King Hattusili III to Akkadian Emperor Kadasman-Enlil II (based in Babylon), proposing war with Egypt.

In 1274BC Hattusli’s father Muwatalli III fought the battle of Kadesh against Egyptian Pharaoh Ramases II.  This was the largest chariot battle in history with 5,000 to 6,000 chariots.  The result of it is not clear though it did head off an attempted invasion of the Hittite Empire. 

This letter would have been early in Hattusli’s reign (which started from 1267BC, though it must have been at least 1263BC, the start of Kadasman-Enlil’s reign) and he probably never went to war with Egypt.  Instead, Kadasman-Enlil restored relations with Egypt with a dynastic marriage and Hattusli negotiated the Eternal Treaty or Treaty of Kadesh with Egypt, which Rameses ratified in 1258BC.  This is the earliest known peace treaty and also survives in the versions of both sides.

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Palmyran funerary reliefs (200-273AD).

Palmyria was a Roman client state based in Syria that at one time stretched from Asia Minor to Egypt.  It was incorporated into the Roman Empire in 272 after the unsuccessful revolt of the Empress Xenobia.

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Aphrodite removing her sandal.

(Roman 1st to 2nd century but copy of Classical Greek original).

I was impressed by the informality and realism of this statue.  Of course, in ancient times it would have been painted.

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Personal seal.

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These ring-necked parakeets are descended from recent aviary escapees.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Art, Constantinople, Hagia Irene, History, Istanbul, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Topkapi Palace, Travel .

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A surviving fragment of Roman-era construction.

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Freighter on the Bosphorous.

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Ancient walls, don’t know the provenance.

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And after dinner, it was time for some shopping….

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.Archaeology, Architecture, Art, Constantinople, Hagia Irene, History, Istanbul, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Topkapi Palace, Travel .

.Archaeology, Architecture, Art, Constantinople, Hagia Irene, History, Istanbul, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Topkapi Palace, Travel .

Monochromes from Samarkand (Part 2)

3 to 5 October 2018, Samarkand, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (with more information and historical context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger (if on a PC at least).

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Here is a side mosque from the archway of the main Bibi Khanum Mosque.

Bibi Khanum Mosque, Samarkand

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The top of the dome of one of the minor mosques.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

On the left is Bibi Khanum Mosque and its pishtak; one of the side mosques is in the background.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Side mosque.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Ulugh Beg Pishtak, the entrance gate to Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis

Shah-i-Zinda, Samarkand.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Inside the Qazi Zadeh Rumi Mausoleum.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The two domes of the Qazi Zadeh Rumi Mausoleum, this image and the next, viewed from the inside.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

In the avenue of the mausolea.

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Looking back at the twin domes of the Qazi Zadeh Rumi Mausoleum.

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Looking through a chortak, or a gateway on the avenue.

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Inside the Shadi Mulk Adi Mausoleum.

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Near the far end of the avenue.

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The pishtak of Alim Nasafi Mausoleum.

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Tuman Aka Mausoleum.

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The top of Gur Emir from a distance.

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Rukhabad Mausoleum.

Ak Saray, Samarkand.

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This and following images, Ak Saray Mausoleum…

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Young woman extracting strips of bark from branches of young mulberry trees to make paper.

Ulugh Beg and Afrasiab, Samarkand

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Water mill for paper making.

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Surviving part of Ulugh Beg’s astrolabe.

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Remains of Ulugh Beg’s astrolabe.

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Country farm and mosque.

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Gur Emir at night.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

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This was the last post on the ancient and modern wonders of Uzbekistan.  There have been 31 posts with 850 images and 17,000 words.  I have updated the links to the posts in the trip itinerary so you can access them from there.

Next, Istanbul….

Monochromes from Samarkand (Part 1)

3 to 5 October 2018, Samarkand, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (with more information and historical context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger (if on a PC at least).

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking up at an archway in Gur Emir, Timur’s (Tamerlane’s) mausoleum.

(Next six images are in Gur Emir).

Gur Emir (Timur’s Mausoleum in Samarkand)

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Actually gold leaf inside the mausoleum.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The main hall of the mausoleum.

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. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Wedding party in front of the Registan.

The Registan, Samarkand

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The Registan.

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The dome of the mosque that is incorporated into the Ulugh Beg Madrassah..

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One of the domes of the Shir Dor Madrassah.

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Ulugh Beg Madrassah is on the left, Tillya-Kari Madrassah on the right.

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Tillya-Kari Madrassah.

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Markets inside the courtyard of the Ulugh Beg Madrassah.

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. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Entrance steps of the Ulugh Beg Madrassah.

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Outside the mosque in the interior courtyard of the Ulugh Beg Madrassah

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Heading into the mosque.

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The interior of the mosque (and following images).

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Not sure whether this is inside the mosque or the madrassah.

Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Ulugh Beg Madrassah.

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One of the domes of the Shir Dor Madrassah.

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 Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Inside the Shir Dor Madrassah.

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The pishtak (or portal) (viewed from the side) of the Bibi Khanum Mosque.

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Detail of earthquake damage.

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 Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Samarkand, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Pishtak, minaret and wall.

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The dome of one of the side mosques, seen from its rear. .

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The top of one of the minarets.

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Looking up at the dome of the one of the minor mosques at the sides.

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The interior of the Bibi Khanum Mosque.

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Monochromes from Shakhrisabz

2 October 2018, Shakrizabz, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (with more information and historical context, including Sogdia). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger (if on a PC at least).

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Walking though the gardens of Dor-us Siyodat.

Kesh, Sogdia, Timur and a Sufi.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Eurasian magpie.

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A corner of Dor-us Siyodat.

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Dor-us Siyodat.

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Inside Dor-us Siyodat.

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Timur’s modest intended tomb.

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Dor-us Siyodat.

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Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Dor-ut Tilovat ensemble.

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Inside the mausoleum of Shamsidden Kulol.

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. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Inside the other cupola, built by Ulugbek for his descendants.

. Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

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Arches in a corridor inside the mosque..

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Kok-Gumbaz (Blue Dome) Mosque.

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.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

In the distance, about a kilometre away, is what is left of Timur’s Ak Saray Palace.

Ak Seray Palace

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Remaining tiles on the sides of the entrance arch.

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.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

Walking towards the entrance arch.

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Timur.

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The entrance arch from the other side.

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.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife .

.Architecture, Black and White, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Shakhrisabz, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan, Wildlife

The entrance arch from the side.

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A remaining section of the palace walls.

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Monochromes from Bukhara (Part 2)

30 September to 1 October 2018, Bukhara, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (with more information and context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger (if on a PC at least).

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The Ark, Bukhara.

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The Emir?

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Camel ride below the Ark.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Bolo-Khauz Mosque.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

,Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Chasma-Ayub Mausoleum.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Israel Samani Mausoleum.

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Inside Israel Samani Mausoleum.

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Kalyan Minaret.

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Pool reflection.

Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace, Bukhara.

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Outside Sitorai Mohkli-Khosa Palace.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

 

Wall niches…

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Room with outfits of the Emir.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Inside the Harem, now a textile museum.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Chor Minor Madrassah.

Last Night in Bukhara.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Ancient door on the street.

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Passing through one of the bazaars, probably Tok-i-Sarraton.

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Under the entrance arch of Abdulazizkhan Madrassah.

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A door in the street.

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Probably the roof of a trading dome.  The storks are the national symbol, but not real.

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Restoration workman on the roof of the Kalan Mosque.

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View with minaret.

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Sun going down…

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Kalyan Minaret.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

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Monochromes from Bukhara (Part 1)

29  to 30 September 2018, Bukhara, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (with more information and context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger (if on a PC at least).

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A truck on the road between Khiva and Bukhara.

Arrival, Bukhara.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Sunset in Bukhara.

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Bridal couple on the street in the evening.

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Above the main portal of the Nadir Divan-begi Madrasa.

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Wall and ceiling details, Nadir Divan-begi Madrassah.

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A silk weaver

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Markets ceiling (under a dome).

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A variety of textile wonders on offer….

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The ancient Magoki-Attori Mosque.

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Mosque entrance.

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Mosque door.

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Looking up in the top level, from the 1930s.

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Under the largest dome of the Toqi Telpak Furushon Trading Dome.

Trading Domes and Madrassahs, Bukhara

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A knife making workshop.

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Ulugbek Madrassah.

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Top of the arch at the entrance to Abdulaziz-Khan Madrassah.

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Scholars’ bookcase, Abdulaziz-Khan Madrassah.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This and next four images from Abdulaziz-Khan Madrassah.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Trading dome Toqi Zaragon.

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Carpet weaver inside the trading dome.

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The Kok Gumbaz (or Blue Dome) of the Kalan Mosque.

Kalan Mosque, Bukhara

. Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Kalan Mosque doorway.

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Under one of the 288 domes of the mosque.

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In the great rectangle of the mosque, looking west.

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking south.

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Looking east.

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Near the west end of the rectangle.

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Looking back through the main portal of the west end of the mosque rectangle.

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(as above).

.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking up at the dome.

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Down a long corridor, probably on the south side.

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.Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Walking back out to the portal behind the tree.

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Architecture, Black and White, Bukhara, History, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Poi-Kalyan Ensemble (the Kalan Mosque is on the right).

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This post is the third of a short series of monochromes from Uzbekistan. They are interspersed with local posts. The previous one is here, two posts back ..

Monochromes from Khiva (Part 2)

28 to 29 September 2018, Khiva, Uzbekistan.

Links go to colour posts (for more information and context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

Click on any image to see it larger.

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Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

This image and the next ten were taken from the roof of the Kukhna Ark.  This one doesn’t appear to have been posted previously as a colour image though.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Roof of the Kukhna Ark.

Kukhna Ark, Khiva.

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Kalta Minor and Amin Khan Madrassah.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Dome of the Amin Khan Madrassah.

Kukhna Ark, Khiva, Part 2.

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Part of an ancient door inside the Ark.

Kukhna Ark, Khiva.

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Workman sawing a supporting beam to demolish a wall.

Kukhna Ark, Khiva, Part 2.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Old madrassah (?).

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Some of these images were taken with a long telephoto lens and I can’t precisely identify the subject.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan .

.Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Two young women on the street below, perhaps returning from shopping.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Door handle and knocker near Kukhna Ark.

Juma Mosque and Toshkhovli Palace, Khiva

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Looking back at entrance to Kukhna Ark.

Kukhna Ark, Khiva.

(The order of images is chronological but quite different from the colour posts.  I think seem to recall there were differences in time settings of my cameras which I only realised part way through making the colour posts.)

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Cheerful dromedary camel, lying in sand.

Juma Mosque and Toshkhovli Palace, Khiva.

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Wedding party in the street and Tura Murad minaret in the near background.

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Inside Juma (or Djuma or Friday) Mosque.

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Carving on wooden pillar.

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Presumably a recent or prospective bride.

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Ceiling detail, Toshkhovli (or Tosh Hauli or Stone Courtyard) Palace.

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Yurt and Khan’s iwan, Toshkhovli Palace.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

An impressive door, possibly of greater antiquity than the palace.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Ceiling section.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

The Khan’s bedroom.

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Street wares outside.

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Street scene, Tura Murad Minaret in the background.

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Markets and Kalta Minor in the background.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Wedding couple.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Kalta Minor and the Amin Khan Madrassah.

Khiva at Night

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Unidentified minaret.

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Action atop Kukhna Ark.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

A detail from the Amin Khan Madrassah.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Small minaret behind Kuhkna Ark.

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Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

People walking towards Kalta Minor.

. Architecture, Black and White, Khiva, Landscape, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Uzbekistan

Kalta Minor.

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This post is the third of a short series of monochromes from Uzbekistan.  They are interspersed with local posts.  The previous one is here, two posts back.  The next one is here, two posts on.