The Windows

The Windows, Arches National Park, Utah, USA, 25th October 2014.

Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Arches National Park has the highest concentration of natural arches in the world.  The area has an unusual geology in that beds of Jurassic sandstone and mudstone were underlain by beds of salt.  The salt eroded away due to the ingress of water as the Colorado River established itself in the area, causing undercutting, fracturing and faulting of the rocks above.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

The first stage in the formation of an arch can be the generation of a fin.  The desert region can be very hot in the day and very cold at night.  Even though it is a desert, there can be water present in cracks in the rock, which then intensifies those cracks through the heating/ cooling process slowly over time.  In this case, fracturing leading to the formation of fins can also be in part due to the stresses on the rock due to the dissolving of the underlying salt layers.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Once the fins are formed, then the holes appear through a slow process of the erosion of the face.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Ultimately, of course, the arches will collapse, though hopefully not when people are underneath.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Looking up.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Still the same arch, I think North Window.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

I think this is South Window.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

North Window again.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Turret Arch.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Turret Arch.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Looking North from Turret Arch, perhaps towards the parade of Elephants.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Perhaps looking South.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Turret Arch.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, The Windows, Travel, USA, Utah

Looking East from near South Window.

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DSCF3016_s-HDR(6)

Turret Arch.

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Trivia point:  This is post number 500 in this blog, though there are less than that on display as I have hidden or removed some of the temporary ones.

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Park Avenue

Park Avenue, Arches National Park, Utah, USA, 25th October 2014.

Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

From Capitol Reef we went to Arches National Park and our first stop here was what is known as Park Avenue.  You can take this as a loop track that goes back to the road in a different place but we just walked down and back.  I first spent a fair amount of time on the overall view shown in the first image, which is a multi-image panorama.  I then had to race down and back because the other members of the group were well ahead of me.

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Arches National Park, Landscape, Park Avenue, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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DSCF2943_s-HDR(3) .

Capitol Reef (and Black Hawk War)

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, USA, 24th to 25th October 2014.

Here are some images from our overnight stay in Capitol Reef National Park.  Capitol Reef was named for a Navaho sandstone dome (that we probably did not see) that resembles the Capitol in Washington and for a line of cliffs that was an early barrier to travel (and was in those days referred to as a reef).

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

(Here we have stopped at a lookout at the side of the road and the larger vehicle is the one we are travelling in.  The next five images are from this place.)

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

We are in Utah.  This is the land of the Utes, the Utes being a group of indian tribes based mainly in Eastern Utah and Western Colorado.  Well, at least it was the land of the Utes until 1847 when the Mormons came to settle, having been driven out of Missouri and Illinois.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

The central document of the Mormons is the Book of Mormon, allegedly handed to Joseph Smith on gold tablets by the Angel Moroni.  It includes a history of prehistoric North America as that of four lost tribes of Israel.  The Indians were said to be one of those tribes (the Lamanites) so Mormons tended to seek places to live on the frontier to reap the opportunity to return the Indians to their special religious destiny.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

This made Mormon relations in Utah different from those of other American States (not that Utah was a State until 1896 mind you).  Because the Indians were believed to be their lost brothers in religion, Brigham Young followed a policy that it was better to feed them than fight them.  So while in other areas, settlers ruthlessly took over the best land and water supplies and exterminated any opposition, the Mormons ruthlessly took over the best land and water supplies and tried to feed the displaced natives.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

That was the policy from Brigham Young, anyway.  The actual Mormon settlers in the frontier areas could often be ruthlessly violent irrespective of official policy.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

(We stopped by the side of the road for, if I remember, some animals at a farm and I found these interesting agricultural relics by the fence).

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Nonetheless, the Indians had a better deal from the Mormons than in other regions where they were subjected to genocide. The situation was also complicated by an ambiguity of jurisdictional power between the Mormons and the Federal Government, both of whom were supplying food to the Indians. However, by 1865 the provision of federal funds and the distribution of food had broken down and Indians were starting to starve.
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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

This led to the Black Hawk Wars of 1865 to 1872. These are named after Black Hawk, the main war leader of the Indians, though he was not the only leader and the war continued after he had surrendered and argued for peace.
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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

At the start of the war at least, the Mormons had a tenuous hold on valleys in the centre and to the West of Utah, whereas the Indians held the land to the East and South of Utah, which was generally unexplored by whites.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

(We made a brief stop for a petroglyph site but after taking photos of the cliffs and the grasses, I ran out of time to make it to the petroglyphs).

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

The Indian motivation for the war was their own physical survival and their purpose was to seize herds of cattle and drive them South-East for sale in Sante Fe where they then bought guns and ammunition as well as food.  Capitol Reef National Park, as it is now called and as you see in these images, was one of the places where they found a myriad of places to hide out with their stolen cattle.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

(The next morning, we went for a drive a short way up the road for dawn.  While dawn wasn’t so impressive that day, we found a nice small waterfall and various other points of interest).

 

Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Indian rebellions like this were usually particularly dangerous for the Indians involved and even others of their tribe.  The US Army was likely to turn up and wipe them out.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Black Hawk had had extensive contacts with the Mormons and he was smart enough to recognise that here was a special opportunity.  Brigham Young didn’t want to call in the Army because he was afraid they would take the opportunity to take over Utah.  All through the 50s, the independence of the Mormons was delicately poised with recurring takeover threats from Washington but they received something of a respite during the Civil War.  Now the war was over and the threat level was rising.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Initially, the Indians concentrated on just stealing cattle and avoiding killing people but after a series of incidents, the killings increased on both sides.  Not all Ute tribes were involved but Indians from many tribes were, including Utes, Navaho, Hopi and Apache.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Conversely, Brigham Young pursued the war with his Navoo Legion, which had had a legal basis in Illinois but not really any more.  They had orders from Young to avoid killing Indians where possible and to only target hostile Indians.  However, the troops were often people living in vulnerable places and these orders were often ignored.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Faced with the success of the Indians, Brigham Young ordered withdrawal from small settlements that were not easy to defend and fortification of the ones that remained.  For some time the implementation of these policies was lax but a couple of massacres focused attention to more rigorously implement these policies.  This led to beating off of raids and winding down of the war.  Black Hawk discontinued combat in 1867 but the war continued on a smaller scale, mainly under the Navaho, until 1872.  Many of the abandoned settlements were not resettled for decades.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

A generation later, Butch Cassidy hid out in the badlands including Capitol Reef.  Actually, when I was in the remote desert in Western Argentina, I encountered a photograph of him and associates on the wall of a local eating place.  He had hidden out in that area for a time while on the run.

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Capitol Reef, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

(Here is another place where we stopped to photograph the spectacular arid landscape).

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DSCF8888_s .

Bryce Canyon 2

Zion Canyon National Park, Utah, USA, 24th October 2014.

Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

The next morning, we returned to Bryce Canyon to photograph the magnificent assemblages at and before dawn.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

After an hour or so we left for breakfast and here we have returned in the later morning for a final sortie.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

One or two of our party walked all the way down to the canyon floor.  I didn’t allow myself enough time for that and it was a long walk back up I didn’t want to have to hurry.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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DSCF8843_s

On our way to Capitol Reef National Park we were transfixed by this huge tree in full autumn foliage in the small town of Lyman, Utah.

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Bryce Canyon 1

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah, USA, 23rd October 2014.

Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

This is from a viewpoint in Bryce National park, 8,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level (or 2,400 to 2,700 metres).  We arrived in mid afternoon and the light could be better but the image does give you a good overview.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

The little shapes that poke up like statues are called hoodoos.  The proliferation of the hoodoos is caused by freezing and thawing cycles in winter, causing splitting in the rocks.  Because of the high elevation it is very cold with ice and snow in winter.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

It looks like a desolate wasteland but you may be able to notice that there are a few houses in the second valley.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

We were lucky to catch the Bryce hoodoos while they are still there.  They are eroding away very fast, at about a metre every 200 years, and within only 600,000 years they will all be gone.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

Unfortunately, some of the first eight or so of these images are not as sharp as they could be.  Being used to a DSLR and not having mirror bounce with the Fuji camera, I thought I could get away without a remote release.  When I later found they were unsharp due to tripod movement, I started using the camera timer.  You won’t notice the unsharpness on this page but many of them are not worth printing.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

I find an ambiguity of scale here.  They might be bonsais but they’re not.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

We went away to have dinner and came back for the sunset….

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah

The pink, orange and white hoodoos and spires are part of the Claron Formation which is limestone, 40 to 50 million years old.

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Bryce Canyon, Landscape, Photography, Southwest Canyonlands, Travel, USA, Utah .

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