St Andrew’s Bay (Take 2)

15th November 2015. St Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . . . . . (12. St Andrew’s Bay)).

.

 

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Chorus line passing the elephant seal.

Another landing before dawn, to St Andrew’s Bay again, that we had visited three days before.  This time I managed to get onshore well before the dawn.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Dramatic pre-dawn cloud on a remote beach on a fine morning.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

The sun has risen on the mountains but not where we are, down near the beach.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A bull elephant seal rises up and roars as the sun peeks over the headland.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Another bull elephant seal crtawls into view in the foreground.  Close inspection reveals the scars of battle.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Vista up the river.  Elephant seals in the foreground, king penguins along the river, glacier in the distance.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

One of the elephant seals is now catching the morning light.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A bull roars…

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Further on, the sides of the glacial river are packed with penguins.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

All are king penguins.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A view of a wildlife metropolis, with conga lines going out to the sea for fishing. Perhaps they think there is safety in numbers, because there could be leopard seals or orcas lurking.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Now what do you think this is?  Donald Trump on the wall of his building perhaps?

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Not drowning, waving…

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A whole city of infant king penguins in front of the mountains and glacier and a kelp gull flying overhead.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

More the adults visible here.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Once again, the vast throngs on the banks of the river and further inland.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife A reindeer antler lying on the beach.

Reindeer were introduced in the early 20th century to provide a food resource for the whalers.  Numbers greatly increased after the whalers left and it was deemed that they were causing to much damage to the fragile ecosystem.  Consequently they have all been killed, though some calves were previously relocated to the Falkland Islands.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Trudging across the river…

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Down now at the edge of the sea, there were many king penguins swimming around in dense rafts, perhaps hunting shoals of fish.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

…And some emerge from the water.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Gold Harbour

14th November 2015. Gold Harbour, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . . . . (8. Gold Harbour)).

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

 

The next morning we landed at Gold Harbour, another wildlife hotspot.  Here is a group of penguins wandering down the beach in the dawn light.  As I was in one of the last zodiacs I only caught the last of that light.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Behind the parade of penguins is our ship, out on the horizon.  Near it, improbably is a yacht.  It must take an adventurous person to sail to South Georgia in a fairly small yacht.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A huddle of king penguins, parading along the beach.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I think this is a small river, rather than a lagoon.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

King penguins and elephant seals.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A giant petrel on a nest, taking advantage of a rare patch of shelter.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

King penguin chicks in front of a colony.  It is raining and some rain has gotten on the lens.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Lots of chicks now.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Captions seem redundant for many of these images.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

An elephant seal in front of a king penguin colony.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

There is a skua in left centre, on the lookout for a meal such as a dead chick.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A skua again, walking around the elephant seal.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A couple of penguins preparing to prostrate themselves.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Definitely a demigod to worship here.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Hold on a second.  Maybe not.

.

Elephant seals, Giant Petrel, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A farewell party not long before we left for the ship.

.

Moltke Harbour

13th November 2015. Moltke Harbour, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . . . (7. Moltke Harbour)).

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Here we are heading from St Andrews Bay towards Moltke Harbour.  This is taken from the Bridge and the window is covered in water (as you can see if you look closely or click for a larger image).  This means that in the open ocean, waves have been breaking over the bow onto that window.  We are now in a sheltered sea, though.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

This image and the following seven show the majestic power of the wild South Georgia landscape, the high jagged mountains covered with snow rising up out of the sea, the banks of fog and cloud, and the mist rising from the sea.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Now we have landed.  We are onshore at Moltke Harbour.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I went for a long walk up the valley towards the hills.

 

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

There were a group of king penguins beside the river on the way back.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Nearby there were three fur seals, perhaps two females and a pup, amusing themselves in the shallows of the river.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I am on my way back with a view of the beach. There are many people and zodiacs at the left hand end of the beach, though also a few people at the mouth of the river.  one zodiac is heading back towards the ship.  It looks like I have enough time to get back.  Click the image if you want to see more detail.

.

St Andrews Bay (Take 1)

12th November 2015. St Andrews Bay, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . . (6. St Andrews Bay)).

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Our next stop sailing down the coast of South Georgia was St Andrews Bay, where we would return some days later.  We all got up well before dawn and piled into the zodiacs for the landing but I was in one of the last zodiacs so arrived just for the last of the dawn colours.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

The wildlife in this post is almost entirely king penguins and elephant seals.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

And sometimes some humans.  The elephant seal pups can be very friendly.  They start off about 80 kilos but they are quite harmless because they don’t yet have teeth.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Three king penguins in front of a varied vista in the early morning.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

The one in front probably knows where they’re going….

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Nothing like a nice comfortable place to sleep in the early morning sun.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Penguin city.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Threading past the elephant seals.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A couple of youngsters having fun.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

This bull elephant seal wants to be taken a bit more seriously though.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Threading past the seals at the edge of the waves….

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

The upside-down face of the elephant seal at top left looks almost like the face of some strange Japanese toy (if you imagine it as being the right way around).

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

One group going in; another swimming past.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I’d walked for a long while along the beach and past a small river to get to a raised viewpoint for this view.  It gives you some understanding of the amazing profusion of wildlife there.  I probably would have preferred it without the photographer but I’m not going to try to get rid of him.  The bird coming towards us at the edge of the sea is probably a skua. Click the image if you want a larger view.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Promenading at the water’s edge.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

There is a lot of noise going on in these colonies and a lot of calling.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Taken out of context, this image would become almost abstract.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Quite crowded in places.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

That’s a snowy sheathbill in front.  Not the most attractive of birds if viewed close up but surviving here well enough.

.

Elephant seals, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Snowy sheathbill, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I had left my camera bag on the beach while taking off with a few cameras and lenses.  I returned to find it was being guarded.  And he wasn’t too happy about giving up his nice comfortable pillow.

 

Grytviken Part 2

12th November 2015. Grytviken, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . . (4. Grytviken)).

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Continuing the walk from the last post, here is an elephant seal bull recovering from a challenge for a harem.  Whaling detritus behind.  They used to hunt elephant seals as well as whales.

 

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Another male elephant seal lurking in the shallows.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Whalebones that have probably been there a very long time.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Remains of a ship that wasn’t going anywhere soon.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Shackleton’s tombstone.

For those who aren’t aware of the history:  Sir Ernest Shackleton launched an expedition to walk across Antarctica, from one ship to another, via the South Pole, in 1914, just before the first World War started.  Unfortunately, his ship was crushed in pack ice in the Weddell Sea before they got to land.  They left the ship and camped on the ice floe until it began to break up so they sailed 560 kilometres in three ship’s lifeboats to reach Elephant Island off the Antarctic Peninsula.  Elephant Island was seldom visited by ships though, so Shackleton had one of the ship’s boats strengthened and with five others set of on a 1,300 kilometre journey to whaling stations on South Georgia, where he would find help.  They survived a savage storm that sunk a 500-ton ship in the general area, to land on the south coast of South Georgia.  Rather than try to sail round, in another incredible feat, Shackleton and two others climbed over the the mountains to reach assistance on the other side.  Eventually, all were rescued and the only death was a sailor who was injured when the ship was crushed.

He died on board ship in harbour in South Georgia in 1921 at the start of another expedition and was buried there.

The 1914-1916 expedition was also remarkable for the photographs of Frank Hurley.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Once a whaleboat.  I’d turned around by this stage, back towards the zodiacs.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

It’s no surprise from this view that Grytviken is the most sheltered harbour in South Georgia.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I head back past the whaling ship “Petrel” again.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… and past the decaying factories of death….

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

They might look like elephant tusks in the foreground but they are the rib bones of whales.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Still chained to the past…

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… and walking past more rusted relics of a less than memorable past.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Almost back where we started, now.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Waiting zodiacs, whale bones and dead ships.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

And here he is, still in place, the King Penguin from the beginning of the previous post.

.

Grytviken Part 1

12th November 2015. Grytviken, South Georgia.

.

(Map of journey . . . (4. Grytviken)).

.
Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

We are now approaching the great metropolis of Grytviken, in fact the only place in South Georgia where the population is greater than zero, not counting seals and penguins.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

A closer view.  A small number of British scientists live here, though Argentina briefly captured the place in the early eighties.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

A king penguin was hanging around on shore, on the somewhat muddy ground.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I was not the only person to photograph him (or her).

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

These I believe are casings for the explosive heads of harpoons, fired from harpoon guns at the front of whaling ships.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

This place is probably a paradise for scrap metal dealers, were they allowed to remove anything.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Grytviken was founded in 1904, initially as a Norwegian whaling station.  It closed in 1965 when virtually all the whales were gone and in the intervening period processed 53,800 slaughtered whales.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Many relics of that period remain.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I would think that the purpose of this huge pile of massive chains was to haul whale carcasses ashore.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… though in this case, to anchor a ship.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Ancient machinery whose purpose probably doesn’t bear too much thinking about.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I went for a walk along the shore quite a way past the settlement.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

There are also remains of various wharves….

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I understand the road accident casualty rate is quite low on South Georgia, much lower than India for example (though actually they usually drive pretty slowly in India in my experience).  For all I know, this may be the only vehicle on the island.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

There are also a couple of old ships moored beside the bay.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

This one is an old whaling ship.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

You can see that the end of the harpoon does appear similar to the rusted sections we saw further above.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

And finally, here are a few shots of rust and paint on the side of the ship.

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Salisbury Plain (Take 1)

11th November 2015. Salisbury Bay, South Georgia.

.

Map of journey . (2. Salisbury Plain).

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Our second landing was at Salisbury Plain, where we would return five days later. We arrived the previous evening but strong winds and rain prevented a landing then.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A skua in the right foreground. King penguins across the stream. South Georgia mountains in the distance.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Flipper of a whale. Probably a relic from the whaling days.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

I was unable to detect any massive stone circles erected by the penguins.  Perhaps I need to read more about Salisbury Plain.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

It’s not just the penguins, the whole environment is magnificent.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Beach procession.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

King penguins porpoising near the shore.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Penguin landing party.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Previously we have seen elephant seals. They are not to worry about too much unless you get between a couple of contesting males and they don’t move very fast except for short distances. These are fur seals though and a different matter. Males stake out a patch of beach as potential mating grounds and will attack if you get too close. They can move very fast, are very powerful and have sharp teeth. To be treated with caution.

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

Looks cuddly but don’t get too close….

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Fur seal, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife .

.

Size of images

Most readers of this blog will be aware that you can click on an image to see a larger version.  For some of the earliest posts in this blog the maximum dimension was I think 800 pixels.  Most have been 1024 pixels.  From this post I have increased it to 1900 pixels.  This won’t make any difference if you are using a phone, but may be useful for those viewing the posts on PCs.