From Port Dauphin to Tana and Beyond

28th to 29th October 2015. Port Dauphin to Antananariva, Madagascar.

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Continuing on from the previous post, still in Port Dauphin, we walked up the hill behind the wharf area and along some of the streets of town back to our hotel.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

This is an abandoned building on the street we were walking down. Across one of those doorways, I think the far one, was a web and an absolutely enormous spider which must have been a Golden Orb Spider.  I did take a photograph but I didn’t get the focus right.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Over the road was a small shop with this delightfully colourful display.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Major street including a three-wheeled tuk-tuk.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

The last image from Port Dauphin. After returning to the hotel we headed for the airport.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

So, now we’re in the air and just outside Port Dauphin.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Clouds en route.

I had heard lots of stories about Air Madagascar, initially known as Air Mad until they decided that might not be such a good name.  Arbitrarily delayed flights, poor service, inadequately maintained planes, overbooking.  We did get to the airports with lots of time to spare but we didn’t encounter any of that.  The planes were fairly new and the service was fine.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

On the outskirts of Tana now.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

After landing, we headed off to a rather nice old hotel but I didn’t take any images there.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Next morning, I took these images on the way to the airport from the vehicle.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travelt

That was the last image from Madagascar though I will post some monochromes much later.

I was about to undertake an epic air journey from Antanariva to Johannesburg to Abu Dhabi to Sao Paulo to Santiago (Chile) to Punta Arenas to Mount Pleasant (Falklands) to Pebble Island.  More of that much later including images from Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and the Atacama Desert.  But now I am off on another trip and posting will greatly decrease, especially as some places will have no internet.  More on that in the next post….

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Berenty to Port Dauphin

27th October 2015. Berenty to Port Dauphin, Madagascar.

Returning from Berenty to Port Dauphin….

Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Some people, perhaps farms workers, on top of a truck heading in the other direction.   He was asking for water but unfortunately, by the time I worked that out, I was too slow to respond.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

A family in their zebu cart.

I might take this opportunity to quickly summarise a book, In Search of the Red Slave, that I read prior to going to Madagascar.  It uses current on-the-ground research to validate a story first published in 1729 and ghost-written by none other than Daniel Defoe.

The protagonist, Robert Drury, was 15 and returning from India in 1703 when the ship he was in went down on the south coast of Madagascar.  The crew were rescued by a local tribe and well treated but were not free.  They decided to kidnap the local chief as a hostage and made for Port Dauphin, but didn’t make it.  They all ended up killed except for Robert Drury and a couple of other youngsters.  He was taken back to the village and made a slave.  After some years he became a respected warrior and was allowed a wife.

He wasn’t satisfied with this and escaped to a tribe to the west that he had encountered in a joint military campaign.  He was welcomed there but after a few more years he was taken in battle by another tribe further to the north.  Initially he was enslaved again but after some time became relatively free again.  Word of his survival had made it back to London and eventually he was rescued by a ship sent out to look for him.  At this stage he had effectively forgotten how to speak English.  He spent some years in London where Defoe wrote up his journal.  This was widely dismissed as fiction in the following years but this book demonstrates how details can only have been authentic.  Ironically, he became dissatisfied with life in London and returned to Madagascar – but this time not as a slave but as a slave trader.

The book is well worth reading for its account of tribal life at the time and the harshness and perils of life there today.  The area in the South where Drury lived are much further to the west, much more remote and much drier than where I visited.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

A very overloaded taxi brousse.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Back at the river, where we passed by on the way out.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Just past the bridge and the river, we are passing through the town of Ambossary Sud.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Obviously out of town now, passing a village.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Not far from Port Dauphin now and a herd of zebu on the road.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Inside Port Dauphin and an enterprising bicycle rider.

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Port Dauphin to Berenty

24th October 2015. Port Dauphin to Berenty, Madagascar.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

We are driving from Port Dauphin to Berenty.  A taxi brousse in front of us has stopped and some women are offering cooked refreshments to the passengers.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

We approach a bridge, in unusually good condition.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Under the bridge is a local in a dugout canoe with a load of sand.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Graves in Madagascar can be elaborate because the ancestors are revered.  They are usually fady or taboo. I don’t know about this one but it could be dangerous to wander into a graveyard near a remote village in the south and take pictures.

These are perhaps less traditional than some I have read about.  Traditionally in the south they made a little house for the dead person that was often made of stone and far more substantial than the houses people lived in.  The dead person’s house was then burnt.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Across fields to the mountains.  The further inland you go here, the less hospitable the land is for agriculture.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

A father and son, it would appear, walking down the road with their zebu.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Three youngsters beside the road.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

A taxi-brousse in front of us, perhaps overloaded with people and cargo, has a distinct list to the right.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Here it has stopped just before a town to let passengers on or off.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Four men walking beside the road on the outskirts of the small town, two chewing sugarcane.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

We had stopped for a flat tyre and taxi-brousse, which we had passed around half an hour ago in the town, now passes us.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

The spare was either deflated or bald so we couldn’t use it to replace the flat tyre.  There were double wheels on the back so we pulled off one of those, put that on the front and put the spare on the inside at the back.  this took some time.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

While this was happening, some of the charming local women and girls walked past us carrying loads on their heads.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave .

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Nearby there was a small roadside hut, perhaps for selling produce but currently empty.  You can see it in the background at the right of the picture three images back.  A snake fell from the roof in the process of swallowing a gecko.  While we were there it slowly and completely consumed the gecko.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

A glimpse of a village surrounded by cacti, probably a traditional method of fortification.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

A bridge in less than perfect shape, with a local helpfully pointing where we should drive.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travet

This is a very poor, dry region.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

The road had once been sealed but the seal now was intermittent.  This made it much worse than just a dirt road.  Perhaps in a Range Rover with their excellent suspension you could zoom over it but in our bus it was very slow going.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Two small boys in front of a village.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Locals and zebu.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Big loads of firewood, I presume.

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Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Trave

Taken from a bridge over a rare river near a town.  Many people are here to bathe, water zebu or wash clothes.

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Tana to Port Dauphin

24th October 2015. Antanarivo to Port Dauphin, Madagascar.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel

Heading south from Tana to Port Dauphin.   Clouds and mountain tops.

Perhaps click for a larger view because seeing the trees atop that near mountain gives a different perspective on scale.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel

Getting closer to Port Dauphin, probably flying at a lower altitude, and now much clearer.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel

There is a person, presumably a fisherman, in a canoe in that bay.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Travel

Not everything is farm land or wilderness.

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Andasibe to Tana

23rd October 2015. Andasibe to Antanarivo, Madagascar.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

From Mantadia I’d say we went back to Andasibe and had lunch because there is three and a half hours between the last Indri image in the previous post and the first image in this post.  All these images are then on the road from Andasibe to Tana.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Hand-made pottery at the roadside…

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

… with small children hiding beneath….

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Once again, these are mainly very fleeting images from a moving vehicle.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

I think this is close to the Peyrieras Nature Reerve, where I visited on my first full day.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Roadside problem….

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

These shacks are at the side of the road on the hill past Peyrieras Nature Reserve.  I kept on having difficulty catching them as they flashed past.  Fourth time lucky.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Open air laundry.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Brick making in the countryside.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

These next ones are a kind of series.  We had stopped by the roadside at this point.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

They are taking their household compost and dumping it in the rice paddies.

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Meanwhile, on the other side of the road….

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

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Morondava to Andasibe

20th October 2015. Morondava, Antanarivo, Andasibe, Madagascar.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

Canoe and outrigger on the beach at Morondava, near out hotel room, early in the morning before our flight out.
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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

I meant to include a map as I started these final posts on Madagascar so I’ll do it now (and also update the Itinerary page).  The small inset map shows Madagascar overall, along with Reunion and Mauritius to the east.

On the larger map, I arrived early in Tana (Antananarivo) and took a day trip to Peyieras Nature reserve.  I met up with the group on returning to Tana and we flew to Morondava (on the west coast) to see Kirindy and the Avenue of the Baobabs.  In this post, we fly from Morondava to Tana via Toliara and then drive to Andasibe and Mantadia National Parks.  After a few days there, we return to Tana and fly to Port Dauphin (in the south) and drive to Berenty.  On the way out, we stay a day in Port Dauphin before returning to Tana where we all depart and I fly on towards the Falklands.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

There were many empty seats on the plane and I was able to relocate to a window seat.  The weather was fine and there was good visibility.  Some of the time we were flying along the coast with interesting views.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

I looked on Google Maps to see whether I was able to identify where any of these images are.  It’s not so easy.  For one thing, the sand probably changes from season to season or from storm to storm.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

We’re flying south from Morondava to Taliana, though.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

Taliana Airport.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

Returning from Taliana to Tana.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

Approaching Tana, now…

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

In Tana now, heading for Andasibe.  There are quite a few Citroen Deux Cheveaux (2CV) taxis in the town (as at the right).  These were originally designed so you could take out all the seats and have a picnic.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

Views of residences as we drive through Tana.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

This is a small town on the way, though I’m not sure exactly where.

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness .

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Aerial Photography, Andasibe, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Morondava, Nature, Photography, seascape, Street photography, Travel, Wilderness

A rural house at the side of the highway.

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