Wild Places and Wild Music Reprise

In the previous post for my exhibition, I think most people only saw the poster.  They didn’t realise the post included 28 images for the prints on exhibition plus an extra ten.  If that’s you or you didn’t see that post:

Click here or go to previous post for Online Exhibition with 38 images.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A2:  Pencil Pines on Cradle Plateau,
Overland Track, Tasmania, August 2017
Fujifilm X-T2, 55-200mm f3.5-4.8
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

(One of the 38).

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Wild Places and Wild Music

Both an actual and a virtual exhibition…

As you can see, I am about to hold an exhibition.  For those who cannot attend, I am holding a concurrent virtual exhibition here in this thread.  You can if you wish, purchase an A3+ print of any of the images below.  A3+ is larger than A3, actually an American size also called Super B, 13″ x 19″ or 329mm x 483mm.

All Prints $A90.

Free postage in Australia and New Zealand.  $10 for US, Canada, UK and Northern Europe.  For other countries, please enquire.  If you are interested in purchasing a print, make a comment below or send an email to zenophon@iinet.net.au.  If you are in Canberra, there’s the exhibition at Smith’s Alternative.

All images were taken and processed by me and also custom printed by me to a professional standard.

Note that there will be some difference between the images on screen and the prints because you are looking at a projected image rather than an image on paper, and your screen may not be calibrated.

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Links below the images go to corresponding colour posts in this Blog. even in the case of monochrome images, because the colour posts have more information.

If you click on an image, instead of 640 x 640 px, as you see on the page, it opens much larger to 1900 x 1900 px.

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Wild Places

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The following images correspond to prints in the actual exhibition (rows A and B).  They are from Victoria, Tasmania, South Georgia, Falkland Islands, Hokkaido (Japan), Iceland, Easter Island, Patagonia, Madagascar and Ladakh (far north India).

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A1:  Path to the Sand Dunes
Point Hicks, Victoria, November 2016
Nikon D800, Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro
Epson P800, Crane Museo Portfolio Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A2:  Pencil Pines on Cradle Plateau,
Overland Track, Tasmania, August 2017
Fujifilm X-T2, 55-200mm f3.5-4.8
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A3:  Penguins in front of mountain range
Right Whale Bay, South Georgia, November 2015
Nikon D3s, 85mm f1,4
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A4:  Red-crowned cranes at dawn (-26ºC)
Otowa Bridge, near Kushiro Wetlands, Hokkaido, February 2012
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8 + TC20E III (stitched panorama)
Epson P800, Canson Arches Aquarelle Photo Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A5:  Hokkaido Trees (planet view – link goes to original image)
Hokkaido, Japan, February 2012
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8 + TC20E III
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk .

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife
A6:  Hofsjökull icecap
Central Highlands, Iceland, September 2013
Nikon D800, 300mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife
A7:  Wake of Ketch
Wineglass Bay Sail Walk, Tasmania, September 2017
Fujifilm X-T2, 100-400mm f4.5-5.6
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A8:  Lone Moai at Ranu Raraku
Easter Island, April 2011
Nikon D3, 105mm f2
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

A9:  Verraux’s Sifaka in tree
Berenty Nature Reserve, Madagascar, October 2015
Fujifilm X-E2 (Infrared), 55-200mm f3.5-4.8
Epson P800, Crane Museo Portfolio Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B1:  Stellar’s Sea Eagle over ice and snow
Nemoro Strait, north of Hokkaido, Japan, February 2012
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8 + TC14E II
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B2:  Whooper swans
Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan, February 2012
Nikon D3, 180mm f2.8
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B3:  Huemul Glacier and Mt Fitzroy behind
North of El Chalten, Argentina/ Patagonia, March 2011
Nikon D3s, 180mm f2.8
Epson P800, Crane Museo Portfolio Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B4:  Panther chameleon capturing insect
Peyrieras Nature reserve, Madagascar, October 2015
Nikon D3s, 85mm f1,4
Epson P800, Canson Museo Portfolio Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B5:  Rockhopper penguin with nesting material
Berkeley Sound, Falkland Islands, November 2015
Nikon D800, 300mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson PrintMaKing Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B6:  Ponies returning to Rumbak Village
Hemis National Park, Ladakh, far north India, January 2018
Fujifilm X-T2, 100-400mm f4.5-5.6
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B7:  Ana Kakenga (lava tube)
Easter Island, April 2011
Nikon D3, 14-24mm @ 14mm, ISO200, 1/250 sec f4
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

B8:  Stars at night near Rumbak Village
Hemis National Park, Ladakh, far north India, February 2018
Fujifilm X-T2, 14mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

 

B9:  Walking in to Rumbak Village
Hemis National Park, Ladakh, far north India, February 2018
Fujifilm X-T2, 56mm f1.2
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Extra Wild Places

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I have also included some additional images below from South West Canyonlands (US), St Kilda (Scotland), Antarctica, South Australia, Greenland and Hawaii.  They are also available for purchase.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP1:  Antelope Canyon
Arizona, October 2014
Fujifilm X-T1, 55-200mm f3.5-4.9
Epson P800, Canson PrintMaKing Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP2:  Main Street, Hirta Village
St Kilda, Scotland, July 2013
Nikon D800, 85mm f1.4, R72 Infrared filter
Epson 3880, Crane Museo Portfolio Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife
XP3: Salt bush country near Oonatra Creek
Boolcoomatta Station, South Australia, March 2015
Fujifilm X-E2 14mm f2.8
Epson 3880, Crane Museo Portfolio Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP4:  Deception Island from Ship
Deception Island, Antarctica, March 2011
Nikon D3s 300mm f2.8 (stitched panorama)
Epson P800, Canson PrintMaKing Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP5:  Polar Bear on Ice Floe
Greenland Sea, August 2013
Nikon D3s, 300mm f2.8 + TC20E III, ISO1250, 1/2500 sec f11
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP6:  Red crowned cranes in mating dance
Akan international Crane Centre, Hokkaido, Japan, February 2012
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8 + TC14E II
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XP7:  Na Pali Coast from helicopter
Kauai, Hawaii, March 2015
Nikon D800, Sigma 35mm f1.4
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Wild Music

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These are mainly images from the Blues Festivals I have been Official Photographer for, over the last ten or twelve years. (Once again, $A90 each, should you want to order prints).

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

C1:  Darren Jack
Thredbo Blues Festival 2012
Nikon D3s, 85mm f1.4
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

C2:  Dallas Frasca
Down by the River Festival, Wangaratta, March 2018
Fujifilm X-T2, 80mm f2/8 macro
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

C3: Guitarist, The Tommyhawks
Narooma Blues Festival 2015
Nikon D3s, 180mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

C4:  Tomcat Playground
Sydney Blues Festival 2016
Nikon D800, 14-24mm
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife
C5:  Ian Moss
Sydney Blues Festival 2012
Nikon D800, 180mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

D1:  Rick Estrin, Rick Estrin & the Nightcats
Narooma Blues Festival 2014
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson PrintMaKing Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

D2:  Dutch Tilders
Rose Cottage Canberra, March 2008
Nikon D3, 180mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson Museo Portfolio Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

 

D3:  Leesa Gentz, Hussy Hicks
Sydney Blues and Roots Festival 2017
Nikon D3s, 105mm f2
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

D4: Rosscoe Clark
Sydney Blues and Roots Festival 2017
Nikon D800, 50mm f1.4
Epson P800, Canson Arches Aquarelle Photo Rag.
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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife
D5:  Brian Cadd, Cadd and Morris
Narooma Blues Festival 2009
Nikon D3, 300mm f4
Epson 3880, Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.
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Extra Wild Music

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A few more that aren’t in the actual exhibition, including one from Cuba.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XM1:  Kid Anderson, Rick Estrin & the Nightcats
Narooma Blues Festival 2014
Nikon D3, 300mm f2.8
Epson P800, Canson PrintMaKing Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XM2:  Turner Brown Band
Blues on Broadbeach 2017
Fuji X-T2, 10-24mm
Epson P800, Canson Platine Fibre Rag.

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Australia, Black and White, Blues, Easter Island, India, Japan, Live Music, Madagascar, Monochrome, Patagonia, Photography, South Georgia, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife

XM4:  Street musician
Havana, Cuba, September 2016
Fuji X-Pro2, 56mm f1,2
Epson P800, Canson Rag Photographique.

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Monochrome and Infrared

Not updated since 2015.

Here are links to the posts on my blog that contain monochrome and infrared images.  The infrared images can either be monochrome or colour.

. Ring around the moon, Canberra, June 2014 Perversely, I am illustrating this post with a colour photograph that probably includes the night-time equivalent of a rainbow (though it looks almost monochromatic).

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio at the Iridium

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio at the Iridium

Les Paul Trio

We had intended to turn up to see Duke Robillard but accidentally turned up to a Jazz band.  Duke Robillard was the next night.  Fortunately, they were very good indeed.

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio at the Iridium

Les Paul Trio

As well as that, the audience was quite small and we were able to sit very close to the band.

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio at the Iridium

Les Paul Trio with Marshall Crenshaw on the right

Les Paul invented the solid bodied electric guitar which was eventually commercialised as the Gibson Les Paul.  He also invented overdubbing (multi-track recording) and a number of techniques that later became influential in Blues and rock.

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio at the Iridium

Marshall Crenshaw & the Les Paul Trio

Les Paul was primarily a Jazz musician.  For many years he played every Monday night at the Iridium Club up until his death in 2009.  There are obviously more than three people here but I think it includes two of the trio who played with Les Paul.

31 October 2011

13th-15th April: At sea, Rio Del Plata, Buenos Aires

On the 13th and 14th we were at sea and this offered an opportunity to prepare images and posts, though as it turned out it took some time to get the opportunity to post them.

On the 15th we arrived in Rio Del Plata and our sea voyage of 27 days to Antarctica, the Falklands and the Atlantic coast of Patagonia was at an end.  A very special opportunity it was too, especially as a specifically photographic expedition with only 16 passengers.  We felt in very safe hands with the Russian Captain and crew and all the excursions were very well organised.  Anyone interested in similar expeditions may wish to check out the Aurora Expeditions website.

We had a few hours in Rio Del Plata which is a large modern city.  The city centre had lots of shops as city centres do but it appeared to lack the anarchic charm of some of the Patagonian towns we had visited.

So then, on a bus and off to Buenos Aires.  You may recall the view from the Hotel window in the first post from Buenos Aires and we were heading for the same Hotel.    We arrived at 5pm in rush hour on a Friday night, coming up on the other side of the road.  It was most impressive to see the bus driver come round the big roundabout and force his way across six “lanes” of traffic (no lane markings) to park outside the Hotel on just the other side of the roundabout.

12th April: Patagonia (Peninsula Valdes)

Today we piled into a bus for a trip to Peninsula Valdes, a world heritage area due to its wildlife.

Our wildlife encounters started in the carpark when we arrived. This is a zorro or Patagonian Fox. Actually not a true fox, it is a member of a South American genus intermediate between dogs and foxes.

We were also met by small armadillos (zorritos), completely unafraid of humans and nuzzling determinedly into packs and pockets in search of food.

A handsome zorro or patagonian fox. Both the zorros and the zorritos were fruitlessly cruising the carpark looking for handouts. They must get some or they wouldn’t be there, though there were of course notices prohibiting it.

The zorritos were scuttling around like clockwork toys on steroids.

Further on from the carpark, near the edge of the water, there were several colonies of sea lions, all females and pups.

Here, beyond the kelp gulls, we see a female who has been calling pups to her. This might be related to potential danger from orcas in the water.

Turkey vulture overhead.

In the distance are two colonies of sea lions, with attendant gulls. There is also a French film crew, nestled above the second colony.

There were a few elephant seals on the beach, as here with a sea lion pup in front.

Sea Lions.

A sea lion parliament, perhaps.

Photographers waiting for action. Peninsula Valdes is one of the two areas in the world where orcas deliberately beach themselves trying to snaffle seals (the other is a French subantarctic island). They go after the pups, mainly sea lions or perhaps elephant seals.

An elephant seal pup and sea lions in the foreground.

We didn’t see any beachings but the orcas cruised past late in the afternoon, shortly before we had to return to the ship.

(That’s a cormorant behind the orca that is showing a bit of tail as it goes down).

… And so they passed on through …..

… and all the sea lion pups got to survive on this day….

On the bus on the way there and back we saw guanacos, rheas and maras. Maras are small animals related to cavies or guinea pigs and one of their forms of locomotion (which we observed from the bus) was a peculiar one called “stotting” where they bounce around on stiff legs as though they have had a sudden attack of tetanus and the ground is electrified.

11th April: Patagonia (Puerto Madryn)

A free day at Puerto Madryn, originally a Welsh colony, because the ship arrived early and nothing was organized.

We had left the Falklands a few days before, which was very British and where there were many references to the war in the ’80s. Here was the counterpart in Argentina, a monument to the war in the Malvinas.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the day was the pair of sea lions (originally three, I’m told) that settled down on the fairly small flat surface of a buttress on the wharf while the tide slowly receded and left them more than 20 feet above it.

I’m not sure when low tide was and how high they would have been then. Late in the day, they dropped 20 feet to the sea in order to leave.

Unlike the photographer above, I wasn’t prepared to take the risk of overbalancing and landing on top of some combination of chains, sea lions and buttress, so I lay dow on the wharf to take the images above.

This gives some idea of how far out of the water the sea lions were. It also shows something of the size of the ship and how large the waves would have been in the Drake Passage when they were washing on deck at the stern of the ship.

9th April: Patagonia (Puerto Deseado and South Atlantic Ocean )

After a few hours in Puerto Deseado in the morning, we spent the rest of the day at sea.

On the right is the pilot, disembarking back off the side of the ship onto a tugboat in the open sea.  The sea was very calm at this time but I imagine it could be quite a tricky operation in a rough sea.

We sailed north along the coast of Patagonia and recieved a fine view of the lighthouse at Cabo Blanco as we passed close by.

The Capo Blanco lighthouse as we passed by, looking directly into the sun.

Here is another view, a bit further on.

8th April: Patagonia (Puerto Deseado and Mirador de Darwin)

Early in the morning we arrived at Puerto Deseado on the Atlantic coast of Patagonia.

Today was a day for landscapes rather than wildlife. We piled into a bus and were driven through the sparse flat Patagonian semi-desert and then through private property until we ended up at a spectacular panoramic viewpoint. There was a twisting river in a broad valley and cracked mud on the valley floor. As it happens, the tide was out and though Puerto Deseado was 42 km away, the sea comes in at high tide. Where we were is called Mirador de Darwin (“Darwin’s Viewpoint” or maybe, vista) because Darwin came in this far in 1833, described and drew it.

Mirador de Darwin, looking up-river. What the purpose of the small huts at top left are I’m not sure.

Mirador de Darwin, looking down-river.

At the bottom of the valley

Patterns

The little triangular rock in middle right is one that Darwin sketched when he was here. Click on the image above for a much larger image you can explore. This opens in a new window. An icon on the bottom right gets full-screen, then you can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel or other icons.  Best to not quite zoom all the way in.

A loop in the river.

This is what most of Patagonia is like in between the sea and the mountains, a flat and featureless semi-desert. Not a place to get lost a couple of hundred years ago. Explains why it was left to the native inhabitants until the end of the nineteenth century, though the period after that was catastrophic for them.

On the way back from Mirador de Darwin,we stopped at Lourdes Votive Shrine. This is in a natural river canyon that was formed long ago when there was either rain in the area or water coming from the mountains. It now has a concrete floor and has become an open-air shrine, a kind of mixture of cathedral and mausoleum.

Graffiti is often an act of desecration, here it is rather an act of consecration because the words on the rock are the names of the dead.

The sign says “Please don’t light any candles”.

The remaining images are all in Puerto Deseado, taken from the ship as the sunset progresses.





A Rothko sunset, perhaps.



A buff-necked ibis that landed on the ship after dark, illuminated by the lights of the ship.

20th March: Patagonia (Ushuaia and Beagle Passage)

This is near dawn, at the Ushuaia waterfront, looking over the harbour, beyond the road to the airport, across the Beagle Channel to the mountains on the other side.

Another shot from the roof of out hotel.

A panorama of Ushuaia harbour in the early morning.

I had expected that in our time in Ushuaia we would get to the National Park and perhaps a trip to the Harberton Homestead. Neither happened. We had too many last-minute tasks to make sure we were prepared for the voyage.

We did get to see a couple of interesting museums. One was the Maritime Museum, a former prison, which graphically shows the savage conditions prisoners endured here in the nineteenth century, including tiny cells, shackles and leg irons.

Another was the Museo de Maquetas Mundo Yámana, with informative displays on the indian history of the region. Essentially the indians were all wiped out by settlers in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Most tribes are extinct and little of their culture remains.

I had been intrigued by a theory that there were early Australoid inhabitants of the Americas thousands of years before the Amerindians turned up (related to Australian Aborigines), and that their last refuge was in Tierra del Fuego up to the early years of the twentieth century. I didn’t find any evidence of that in Ushuaia and all the photographs of nineteenth century natives looked to be Amerindians of Mongoloid ancestry. If there were Australoids there, most likely they were a minority group in one or more tribes.

Clouds over the end of the Beagle Channel.

The big day. Off to Antarctica in a Russian icebreaker.

We left Ushuaia about 4pm and proceeded up the Beagle Channel until about midnight when we entered the Drake Passage. A school of whales passed us at one point but they weren’t there for long and I didn’t see them. I did spend some time photographing albatrosses and petrels with a long telephoto from the moving ship.

A small lighthouse in the Beagle Channel.

Another small lighthouse. The building behind is not an estancia and I think it must be a Customs Port or Monitoring Post.

Moonrise at the end of the Beagle Passage.

Google Maps link.