Guillemots, Walruses and a Polar Bear

Hamiltonbukta, Spitsbergen. Day 40. 7th August 2013.

We had sailed overnight and were now in the remote bay of Hamiltonbukta, probably around forty kilometres from where those sealers were frozen in, in 1872.  Early in the morning, we set out in the zodiacs.

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These are bird cliffs.  There are thousands of guillemots up there nesting on little ledges.

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If you click on this image, you can see some of the birds up there.  We were at the time when the chicks leave the nest, high on the cliffs.  The only problem is that they haven’t flown before and they don’t do it very well.  The parents call to them from down on the sea and they throw themselves out of the nest, half flying down to the sea, often bouncing off rocks on the way down but usually seemingly little the worse for wear.  However, it is a hazardous journey and skuas and glaucous gulls are waiting to snap up any chicks they can, particularly the ones that don’t make it to the sea.

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Here’s one that made it down safely,

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now reunited with Mum

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and paddling off together.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

This is just a cliff, no ledges for the guillemots to nest.  Note the waterfall at the right though.

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A little later we encountered a couple of walruses, mother and cub.

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They looked at us for a while, then slid back into the water.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

These were the only walruses we were to encounter on the journey.

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Another of the ubiquitous glaciers of Spitsbergen.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

I didn’t expect to see a yacht so far north, though.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

There was also a stray polar bear up on the cliffs.  They are usually solitary.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

There are 2,000 to 3,000 polar bears in Spitsbergen (or Svalbard if you prefer).  The males grow to 350-500kg and the females 150-250kg.  They are 2 to 3 metres long.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

Patterns and details in the glacier….

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

The floating ice sometimes assumes fantastic shapes.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

The scale of the glaciers is most impressive.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife

Bird cliffs again.

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Glacier, Guillemots, Hamiltonbukta, Icebergs, Nature, Photography, Polar Bears, seascape, Spitsbergen, Travel, Walrus, Wilderness, Wildlife .

(I am about to increase my posting rate until the end of the month.  One a day is not enough to finish Spitsbergen and Greenland in that time so some days there will be two posts).

Farewell to Hirta

St Kilda, Outer Hebrides, Scotland. Day 20 , 18th July.

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Early in the morning, before we left, I took some shots of Village Bay from the ship.  This first one is a wide angle and you can see some naval buildings in front on the far right and a little of them on the far left.  “The street” stretches across the middle, with stone fences, enclosures and cleits behind.  (You can always click on the image to see that better).  There’s still some fog but the weather is much clearer than either of the previous two days.

Much of the sea wall at the top of the bank behind the “beach” was demolished by the navy years ago but remember that after the huge storm of 1860 the houses along “the Street” were knee-deep in water.

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This image and the following ones were picked off with a 300mm lens, though some combine multiple images for a panorama.  This shows a little of the density of cleits, walls and enclosures behind the houses.

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The cleits and enclosures continue behind the “head dyke” or back wall.

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A view of the Feather Store from the front and the wharf in front of it (with the tide out).  You can see why landings can be difficult in rough weather.

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Lady Grange’s house in the mid left foreground.  Behind that is the street and behind that the cemetery.  You can see the cemetery gate if you click on the next image and zoom in, though you can only really see the front wall of the cemetery.

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Click to view much larger image

The image above is a panorama comprising six images.  You won’t see much detail in it as it sits on this page, but you will if you click on it.  If you click on any image in the Blog you’ll see a larger one, but in this case you go to a huge image that you can zoom into.

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The cleits continue up the hills and beyond the horizon.

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Our last glimpse of Village Bay – these are some enclosures on the cliffs of Hirta near Dun, just south of the village.

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Looking back from the North-East coast of Hirta.  Village Bay is out of sight behind the headland and Dun is in the distance at the left.

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Sgeir nan Sgarbh

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Stac an Armin, Stac Lee and Boreray

These are two stacks and a corner of the island of Boreray, some miles away.  Stac an Armin, on the left, is where three men and eight boys survived for nine months when the smallpox epidemic laid waste to the residents at Village Bay on Hirta.

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Sea Cave

There’s a small line of black-and-white guillemots perched on a ledge high inside the wall of the sea cave.

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Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Mhoir at Gleanne Mor

This is our last glimpse of settlement on Hirta.  The creek is called Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Mhoir and the area is Gleanne Mor.  If you look closely there are a number of cleits in the landscape.  To the left of the creek, out of sight here, there are the remains of a number of interesting structures.  These include sheilings, or summer huts and the “Amazon’s House” (Taigh na Banaghaisgeich), thought to be a Pictish-era residence dating from 400AD to 900AD.  Mind you, there should also be sheilings within our field of view, though you’d have to be walking around to have a chance of identifying them.

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Mina Stac off Conachair

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Not so long ago, the inhabitants of St Kilda would have lowered themselves down these cliffs on homemade ropes and swung sideways to get to the birds and their eggs.

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The birds are guillemots.

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Hebrides, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Scotland, seascape, St Kilda, Travel .

Hebrides, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Scotland, seascape, St Kilda, Travel .