Monochromes from Eastern Crete

Crete, Greece, 12 October 2018.

.
Links go to colour posts (with information and historical context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Venetian Harbour and the Koules Fortress. (First night in Crete).

Thira to Heraklion.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

An ancient building below our hotel room, with the roof in need of repair.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

An old ruined boat fenced off beside the harbour.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

South House.

Knossos.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Large pithoi (storage jars), South PropylæumPostpalatial Period (1450-1100BC).

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Octopus fresco, in situ.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

The Throne Room.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Surprisingly, it’s an elaborate jug.

Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

The “Snake Goddess”.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Large jars with impressive decorations.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Burial in a wide-mouthed Pithos.  Neopalatial period 1700-1450BC.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Fishing Nets.

Thira to Heraklion.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Night concert.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

The Orthodox Church of Agia Fotini.

Heraklion to Zakros.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Paralia Tholos.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

House B in Block Beta, Palaikastro Minoan Town.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Minoan Palace of Zakros.

Zakros.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Rear of Lustral Basin with base for a column.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Nisida Kafali and Nisida Kavallos.

Zakros to Matala.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Paralia Mazida Amnos.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Roadside shrine.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

A couple exploring the historic caves of Matala.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Section of Citadel wall, Acropolis of Gortyn.

Gortyn.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Church of St Titus in Gortyn, from the Acropolis.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Largest remaining citadel wall, Gortyn Acropolis.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Landscape with ruins and olive trees from Gortyn Acropolis.

.

Rethymnon Fortezza

Rethymnon, Crete, Greece, 20 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

After spending some time in the morning at Chania, we drove back to Heraklion for the plane the next day.  On the way we stopped at Rethymnon.  We didn’t really visit the city, but we did spend some time at the Fortezza.

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

At the north side of the Fortezza, overlooking the modern town.

There has been settlement here since neolithic times and the Minoan settlement didn’t fare well with the tsunami from Thera.  The hill on which the Fortezza is built is thought to have originally been an island connected to the mainland by a narrow spit but is now part of the mainland.  It is also thought to be the site of the acropolis of ancient Rithymna including the temple of Apollo and the Sanctuary of Artemis, but this has not been proved archaeologically.  Rithymna was most important in the 3rd and 4th centuries BC and declined afterwards.  The Venetians arrived in Crete in 1211, after the 4th Crusade occupied Constantinople, and subsequently decided to build a harbour here which led to the revival of the city.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

In 1571, the pirate Ulu Ali attacked Rethymnon with forty galleys and sacked it, demonstrating the inadequacy of the fortifications.  Consequently, the Venetians built the Fortezza with supposedly more than 100,000 “volunteer” Cretan labourers, finishing it in 1580.  They had promised the inhabitants of the city they could all come and live within the walls but that proved not to be the case and it was in any case much too small for that, so it became a place of refuge for the population instead.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

In 1646, Rethymnon fell to the Ottomans.  The Venetian Cathedral of San Niccol became the Mosque of Sultam Ibrahim Han and additional houses were built for the Ottoman garrison and administration.  By the turn of the twentieth century, the fortezza was filled with residential buildings but these were cleared out after the Second World War and ancient buildings restored.

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

You can see that the angles for the gun slots are pointing down rather than out.

In 1897, the Great Powers decided to occupy the island and Rethymnon was occupied by the Russian Army until 1907 (Putin was not yet Tsar at that time).  In the Second World War, the city was bombed by the Germans and many buildings destroyed.  The Germans sent paratroopers in to occupy the city in 1941, thinking it was not defended.  but there were two Australian and two Greek battalions as well as armed local Gendarmerie, and the Germans did not fare well here.  At one stage, the Allies had captured panels requesting resupply and were able to persuade German planes to drop guns and ammunition to them.  In the same way they were able at one point to direct the Germans to drop bombs on their own troops.   However, they were unable to receive the general order to withdraw and the Australians and one Greek Battalion had to surrender when they ran out of food and ammunition, while the other Greek battalion, mainly Cretans, was able to disperse into the countryside.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Walls and gun emplacements.

The city was very poor after the war but it is much more prosperous now, with main income from tourism as well as agriculture such as olive oil.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

This is the Ottoman Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han, formerly the Catholic Cathedral of St Nicholas.  The base of the former minaret is on its left side.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

I presume this is a small mausoleum but I’m unable to find a description online.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Councillor’s residence, possible mausoleum and Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The Councillor’s Residence.

The Rector, or Governor, ruled with the aid of two Councillors, one of whom lived here.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The square openings in the walls were presumably emplacements for cannon.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Corner gun emplacement.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

You can get a glimpse here of the task of gunners firing down to repel invaders and preserve the Fortezza.   The Fortezza was said to be vulnerable both due to its small size and because it was not surrounded by a ditch.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

I understand that the Greek Government is unlikely to be willing to supply these cannons to the Russians in Ukraine (though they would only be a danger to anyone trying to fire them).

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The remains of  a series of food storerooms and water cisterns.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The storeroom archways divided the storerooms into smaller spaces and supported the roof.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Underneath are mysterious passages, perhaps storerooms,

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

I seem to recall this was once used as a prison….

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

One of the “tubes” was filled with relics from the Ottoman era.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The Ottomans were less than sympathetic to the local population and all Moslems were thrown out in 1923. (There are some now in the more tolerant era of today).

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

I suspect these are tombstones.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

There may be an interesting story to be told if I could read Arabic and understand the iconography.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The ceiling of the Ottoman Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The mihrab, unfortunately defaced by graffiti.

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

An ammunition storage depot, with a pyramidical roof, perhaps to help cannon balls bounce off.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

A southern part of the wall.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The city and the port.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Inside the church of Agios Theodoros Trichinas.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Getting in closer….

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The souvenir shop, located inside an old Venetian enclosure.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Greece, History, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

The old Venetian harbour and lighthouse.

.

That was the last post on Crete, apart from three mono posts to come, and maybe a live music one. There have been 18 posts, nearly 500 images and close to 12,000 words in commentary.  It has included visits to Minoan, Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman sites, artefacts from a couple of museums, views of often remote landscapes and street scenes.  You can see any of these posts from links in the Itinerary, which I have just updated.

Next posts will come more frequently than usual for a couple of weeks.  Then I will start posting on my recent trip to North Queensland and much later get back to rest of the trip that included Crete, with Andalusia, Barcelona, Oregon and Washington.

On the Streets of Chania

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 to 20 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Chania has been a settlement for 5,000 years and a city for at least 3,500.  I found the different layers of age fascinating.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Near our lodging on the first night.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Most of these buildings I have no idea of their age or provenance.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

A closer look.  the sun has gone behind a cloud.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Many parts of the old city have no cars, so in others parking is probably hard to find.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Streetscape with cat.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Streetscape with cat.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

No. 27.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

No. 4.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Streetscape with cat.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

The lock of a door.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

On the street.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

We stopped here for lunch.

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Street scenes….

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Chania, Greece, Photography, Street photography, Travel .

.

Archaeological Museum of Chania

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

We are in the Archaeological museum of Chania, located inside the former Venetian Monastery of St Francis and housing Minoan and Roman artefacts.  It is not clear when the building was constructed but it was recorded as surviving the earthquake of 1595.  It became a mosque during the Ottoman occupation, then for a while a storehouse for military equipment and a museum in 1962.  In 2000 it closed and in 2022 a new and larger modern museum opened outside the city centre.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

At the end of the main hall we see mosaics and statues.

.

Roman mosaic featuring Dionysus and Ariadne.

This is the first large mosaic on the floor in the previous image.  Obviously, I couldn’t take it from above and I didn’t quite allow enough to get the whole mosaic circle in after correcting for perspective.

Dionysus is the Roman god of wine and festivity.  Ariadne is a mythological Minoan princess who helped Theseus escape from the labyrinth, was later abandoned by him and subsequently married Dionysus.

Dionysus is depicted between two satyrs, his companions in hedonism, one of whom is Selinus.  It demonstrates the moment he found Ariadne sleeping on the foreshore of the Island of Naxos, after she was abandoned by Theseus.

The mosaic was found near the market square of Chania in 1977.  It is from the second half of the 3rd century AD.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

The mosaic further on in the main hall.

It shows Poseidon rescuing Amymone after she was attacked by a satyr.  From mid third century and found in 1937.  It was in the central dining room of an ancient private house.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Another mosaic in a side chamber.

It is described as showing Dionysus on a panther followed by a satyr.  I can see the satyr but not the panther.  From 3rd century AD and found in 1977.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Out the back, this must be a Venetian lion dismembered by the Ottomans or maybe by an earthquake.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Late Minoan III (1650 to 1600BC) bath tub used as a coffin.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Minoan liquid container, presumably for water or wine.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

In the back garden again.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

A remarkable succulent growing up a wall.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

I don’t have a description for this but I presume it is Minoan.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Marble vase from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Marble vases from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Clay vase from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Clay pyxis from Chamber tomb at Aptera (near Chania).  Late Minoan IIIB 1300-1250BC.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Jewellery of the Hellenistic period (end of 4th to 3rd century BC).

Found in the cemetery of ancient Kydonia (modern Chania), for a dead woman to wear in the afterlife.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

The Presentation of the Virgin Mary Holy Metropolitan Church.

There was a small church here from the 11th century.  Later, the Venetians demolished it for a warehouse.  Under the Ottomans it became a soap factory until 1850 when it was donated to the Christians.  In the late nineteenth century it became the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Chania, which was then the capital of Crete.

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

This is above the central door you see in the previous image.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Inside the Cathedral.

. Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

A panel inside the Cathedral.

.

Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Greece, History, Photography, Street photography, Travel

Archaeological excavation of Ancient Kydonia.  Settlement occurred from late Neolithic around 3000BC through Minoan, Greek and Roman to 365AD when Kydonia was levelled by an earthquake.  What we see here is for the late Minoan period around 1450BC.

.

Chania Harbourside

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Looking across Chania Harbour.

We’d arrived the previous evening after driving from Sougia (previous post) and were staying nearby in the old city.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Giali Tzami (Mosque of the Seaside), taken from the same spot.

This was the first mosque built in Chania, in 1649, shortly after the Ottoman takeover.  After the last Moslems left in 1923 (following the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922), it became first a museum and then an art gallery.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Chania lighthouse.

The original lighthouse was built by the Venetians between 1595 and 1601.   It was destroyed in1645 after the Ottoman takeover.  It was rebuilt by Egyptian troops under the Ottoman Empire in 1864, upon the original base.  Crete had been run by Mohammed Ali of Egypt from 1830 to 1840, during the time when he had built an empire inside the Ottoman Empire.

.Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Street musicians.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

The Firka Fortress.

It was built in 1629 by the Venetians to protect the harbour from invaders such as the Ottomans who turned up in 1645.  A chain could be raised across the harbour mouth from the fortress to the lighthouse.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

A submarine in Chania Harbour?

No, not really but you can go inside it and view underwater through glass windows.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Harbour wall and a glass-bottom boat.

My guess is that there were cannons on the wall and the small building was the ammunition store.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Elegant harbour-side transport.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

A reflection in the water (you probably worked that out).

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Walking beside the Neoria or dockyards.

The Neoria were for maintenance of ships.  There is a long history of such structures and there were similar ones in Carthage for example.  The first ones were built by the Venetians in 1204, when Venice occupied Crete following the Latin conquest of Byzantium during the Fourth Crusade.  By 1607 there were twenty-two Neoria.  This row of seven survive, plus another single one further west.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Is it a fishing boat or a street market?

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

View across a flotilla of moored small boats to the Neoria.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Another elegant harbour-side transport, this time with a female driver aged maybe eight.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Minaret and bell tower behind the Neoria.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Harbour-side views.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

A view of the lighthouse from walking along the harbour wall (there was no entry).

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Looking back along the harbour wall.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Walls with perhaps many stories to tell.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Boats and Neoria.

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Fishing boat and nets.

.

Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

The Grand Arsenal of Chania.

This is a long building because it was originally one of the Neoria, built around 1585.  It was converted to a conventional building in the mid nineteenth century and a second floor added in 1872.  It was damaged by German bombing in the Second World War and reconstructed in 2002.  It is now the Centre of Mediterranean Architecture and  hosts events, conferences, theatrical performances, workshops and concerts.

.

Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

The pseudo-submarine at the harbour mouth.

.Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

The water in the harbour is surprisingly clear.

.Architecture, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Palaiochora, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

A last look at the lighthouse….
.

Sougia to Chania

Sougia to Chania, Crete, Greece, 18 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

This post covers our journey from Sougia to Chania in Western Crete.

.

The first images are from the road from Sougia to Palaiochora.

There are many layers here, terraces, occupied and unoccupied rural buildings.

.

A residence in a rocky landscape that recedes into the fog.

.

Perhaps a monastery and a bell tower.

I suspect it is too substantial for just a church.  There is also some terracing visible, probably for crops.

.

A distant church on a remote peak.

This image and the next are close to Palaiochora.  The previous three were close to Sougia.

.

Side road and tree.

.

This is the point of the peninsula at Palaiochora.

It is taken from the beach at the road from Sougia.  There is a harbour round the other side of that point.

.

Extension of the previous shot, panning to the right.

Not sure why I didn’t make them join up to a panorama.

.

Zooming in, the Venetian fort atop the town.

It was built in 1278, destroyed in 1332, rebuilt in 1334, destroyed in 1539, rebuilt in 1595 and destroyed some time before 1834.

During the Second World War, there was a battle between German motorcycle reconnaisance troops and a Greek regiment with some Cretan Gendarmes.  The Germans built gun emplacements in the fort that are still visible today.

We intended to visit the fort but couldn’t find any parking nearby.  So, being concerned not to turn up too late to our accommodation in Chania, we kept driving.

.

A small village on a strategic ridge with a church, a graveyard and a number of buildings.

.

A house and a small church.

This is also visible in mid right of the previous image.  There is a man, a utility and a small flock of sheep.  there is also a very small village in the background, some of which appears relatively new.

.

Back at the village on the ridge, here is a duplex half occupied and half ruined.

The occupied half includes a spiral staircase up to a small roof balcony.

.

A church overlooking an ancient coastline.

However, the buildings on the point are not ancient.  They are perhaps holiday homes for wealthy residents of Chania, with several swimming pools visible.

.

Not everyone is affluent.

.

This is a rocky and impoverished part of Crete where most of the young people have left to find employment and there are many derelict houses.  in real estate parlance, renovators’ dreams.

Western Crete has probably been remote for a long time.  I don’t know how close they were to these villages, but somewhere in the mountains of Western Crete was a group of Communists who held out twenty years after the civil war had finished in mainland Greece.

.

Lots of interesting detail.  People live in some buildings while other buildings erode away.

. .

. .

.

At first sight, someone is using this decaying building for their daily garage.

However, the van is not going anywhere fast.  Its wheels are covered in sacks and the rear window is covered in dust.

.

It’s almost like a modern archaeological site.

. .

.

An olive farm on the skyline.

.

The last two images are somewhere near the north-west corner of the island.

.

Sougia and Syia

Lissos to Sougia and Syia, Crete, Greece, 17 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Captain George to the rescue!

Here we are still in Lissos, the ancient ruined Minoan, Greek, Roman and Byzantine city from the last post, watching the arrival of our sea transport to return to Sougia.  There was a sign onshore giving a phone number and saying he would be there in ten minutes.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

A view of the cliffs from the boat on the journey back.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Sougia in the distance, taken with a very long lens.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

If there’s an earthquake, I think you don’t want to be under this cliff.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Probably only the hardiest of trees can survive here.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

A lone tree against the horizon.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

We’re back in Sougia now. 

This may be a view from where we were staying.  There is a swimmer in the water and a ship on the horizon.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

We went for a walk around Sougia and discovered traces of the ancient city of Syia.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

A very old olive tree, probably with a net for olives wrapped around it.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

These are Roman tombs.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Though Syia was a Minoan port, the excavated ruins are Roman and early Byzantine. 

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Much is still yet to be excavated.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

There is apparently an aqueduct outside town visible from the road.  There are also ruins of Roman buildings and three large early Christian Basilicas.  There is more there than we saw at the time.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Remains of an ancient wall.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Nature, Photography, seascape, Sougia, Syia, Travel

Another stone circle, similar to the one we saw at Lissos.

.

Lissos

Lissos, Crete, Greece, 17 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Panagia Chapel.

The last image in the last post showed the coastline of Lissos Valley, with this chapel just visible  near the sea.  This image is from the route in, and taken from at same position as that previous image, but with a long telephoto instead of a wide angle lens.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Roman tombs in the necropolis on the far side of the hill.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

An ancient ruined house, probably from the Roman period.

Lissos was a Minoan, Greek, Roman and Byzantine city until it was destroyed by Arabs who invaded from Spain in the 820s and occupied Crete until they were driven out by the Byzantines in 961.  It was one of the two ports of the Dorian city of Elyros (further inland) along with Syia (the ancient name for Sougia).  It was the only city on this part of the South Coast to issue its own coinage.

. Archaeology,

Temple of Asklepios.

This image and the next three is at the Temple of Asklepios, built in the 2nd or 3rd century BC.  Dedicated to the God of Medicine, people came here in ancient times to partake of the healing properties of its springs.  It was destroyed by an earthquake which covered it with rocks from the cliffs above and also partly preserved it.  When it was excavated in the 1950s many statues were recovered and marbke floors revealed.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

.

Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

.

Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

.Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

The Church of Agios Kyrikos.

This is a 14th century church, not the same as the one near the coast we saw earlier.  (And Agios Kyrikos is not to be confused with Nicholas Kyrgios, not the same at all).

.

The view inside.

It looks as though I missed an opportunity to examine the paintings on the left hand wall, which probably come from the original church in the 6th century AD.  However, I suspect access may have been restricted to the back of the church.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Ruined house nearby.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

There are quite a few fragments of ruined houses, many from the Roman era.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Stone circle of unknown provenance (unknown to me at any rate).

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

There is also much that is yet to be excavated.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

.Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Unsurprisingly, there are many ancient olive trees.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

The patterns of the bark can be compelling….

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

On the western side of the valley there is an extensive Roman Necropolis with many small chambers (now empty).

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Panagia Chapel.

Here we are now at Panagia Chapel, that we saw on the first image of this post and the last image of the previous one.  It is also a 14th century chapel  but incorporates some ancient Greek marble.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

The view inside.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

Ruined buildings near the chapel.

The holes may be for beams of the floor, cast out of alignment by an earthquake.

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel .

. Archaeology, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Travel

An ancient olive tree, now barely surviving.

In the next post we return to Sougia and also check out the archaeological site of Syia.

.

Sougia to Lissos

Sougia to Lissos, Crete, Greece, 17 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

This post covers a walk from the village of Sougia, on the south west coast of Crete, to the site of the ancient Roman town of Lissos in a neighbouring valley, taking about 90 minutes.

There’s been a gap in posts while I have been in Far North Queensland.  I will finish posting on Crete with seven to nine posts on Western Crete, plus a few mono posts of Crete.  There will also be a live music post in the middle of those.  The rest of that trip (to Andalusia, Barcelona, Oregon and Washington) will then have to wait while I cover the trip to Far North Queensland.  

.

Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

This is from the western end of the beach at Sougia.  If you click for a larger image, you will be able to see the umbrellas at the far end of the beach.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

There is also a World War II gun emplacement and a rusted anchor.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

A small church set back from the beach.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

The tiny harbour of Sougia.  There must have been a harbour here for thousands of years.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Another miniature roadside shrine.  This one has a photograph of the person it is dedicated to.  In view of the location he was likely lost at sea.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

We have now started on the walk to Lissos.

Here is an abridged description of the walk from the site sougia.info:

“The walk starts at the harbour of Sougia. Whilst passing there, note the ancient water line which is clearly visible in the cliff, about 7 meters above the present sea level. This sudden elevation happened about 1500 years ago in western Crete.”  (Note: you can see that waterline behind the harbour in the earlier image.)

“At the entrance of the small gorge, a fence must be opened (& closed afterwards) and after clambering over a smooth rock you get on the path leading to Lissos.  After following the path in the shade of pine trees for about half an hour you will pass an impressive smooth cliff overhanging the trail. Ten minutes later the path veers off to the left and starts climbing up the hill. The good path up the hills then leads through old pine trees to a treeless plateau with good views all around. After ten more minutes walking straight towards the West you arrive at a steep drop with beautiful views of Lissos. Lissos is like a bowl of vegetation fields and terraces leading to the sea.”

.

Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

Some of the trees grow in unlikely places.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

(Most of the images in this post require no description).

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

This is not a wild goat.  He has a collar.

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel .

. Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Lissos, Nature, Photography, Sougia, Street photography, Travel

We are now overlooking the mouth of the valley where Lissos is.  Perhaps you may need to click on the image for a larger view but Panagaia Chapel is in the middle near the sea and a small boat is behind it, offering a passenger service.  We discover we may not need to walk back.  The chapel is made using materials recycled from the ancient Roman town and has several carved marble blocks in its walls.

.

FrangoKastello to Sougia

Matala to Hora Sfakion, Crete, Greece, 16 October 2018.

.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

.

The previous post, for the first part of the journey for the day, finished at Hora Sfakion.  Next we drove the short distance to FrangoKastello, then the rest of the journey to Sougia.  This involved a long detour to the north (see map in previous post) because there is no road along the south coast there.

.

Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

Notwithstanding the name, FrangoKastello is a Venetian castle.  The locals called it the Castle of the Franks as a somewhat sardonic reference to the foreign religion of their overlords (Roman Catholic) and the name stuck.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

It was built from 1371 to 1374 to provide protection from pirates and the frequently rebelling locals.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

FrangoKastello was last renovated by the Venetians in 1645, shortly before it was taken by the Ottomans.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

In 1770, the Cretan rebel Ioannis Vlachos occupied FrangoKastello but later he was captured by Ottomans and executed.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

In 1828, a group of locals and Greeks from Epirus occupied the castle as part of an attempt to spread the Greek War of Independence to Crete.  They lost a fierce battle and were massacred.  The Ottomans subsequently suffered many losses in ambushes by the locals but they stayed.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

After the 1828 events, the castle was destroyed so it could not be used in subsequent independence actions, but it was later rebuilt.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

The last period of reconstruction and reuse was during the Cretan Revolution of 1866-69.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

Items found on the site have included Venetian ceramic vessels, mainly from the 15th century, coins, swords, and a lead seal of the Doge of Venice Lenardius Donato (1605-1612).

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

Looking up inside one of the towers.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

The cars may have been left here by the Venetians during the construction of the castle in the fourteenth century.  I was not able to confirm this at the time.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

An ancient fortress visible from the road.  Due to the absence of gun ports I would guess Byzantine.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

Looking down on farmland from the same location.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

We are now in Vryses where we stopped for a coffee.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

It’s possible some of the buildings may not be newly constructed.

.

Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

This is the town centre.

.

Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

We are now heading south on the road from near Chania to Sougia and it is getting very late in the afternoon.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses .

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

A church and buildings in the shadow of a valley.

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses .

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses .

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses .

. Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

A cemetery by a chapel perched on the side of a cliff near Epanochori.

.

Architecture, Crete, Frangokastello, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Vryses

.

I’m currently travelling in North Queensland.  I prepared this post before I left.  So far I’m too tired at night to process any images and my guess is there will be no more posts for a while, until say the second week in August..