Topoxté

Topoxté and Yaxha, Peten, Guatemala, 28 August 2016

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha

Next morning we visited the island of Topoxté in Laguna Yaxha.

There are six islands on Laguna Yaxha, settlement was mainly on three of them (which comprised a Mayan city) and Topoxté is the largest.

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Cormorant on a drowned tree, from the island.

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The island is now mainly jungle but there are lots of mysterious mounds..  This is because there were around one hundred structures.

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Topoxté was occupied from the Middle Preclassic (1000 to 400 BC) to 900 AD, and again from 1100 to 1450 AD.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha

At times it was part of Yaxha and at others, independent.  In the later period they were associated with the city of Mayapan in Yucatan and after 1450 moved 14 kilometres west to Zacpeten, on a peninsula on Lake Salpeten, until the Spanish arrived in 1697.

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This is “Building C”, the main building in the Main Plaza.  Also for the two previous images.

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This break in the jungle is probably a paved street leading up to the Main Plaza.

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Once a dramatic building, you can see the bricks poking out of the soil.

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Still on the island, a dramatic flower with a bug.

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After returning from the island, we visited Yaxha again.  There are eighty-two species of bat in Guatemala and I’m not going to pretend I can identify this one.

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Views from the top of another pyramid.

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That’s Topoxté in the middle, with a small boat passing by, much like the one we were on (or maybe even the same one).

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha .

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Howler monkeys.

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Still howler monkeys but it’s three hours later and we are probably back at Ecolodge El Sombrero.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha .

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In the late afternoon we went for a drive to some nearby wetlands.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Cormorant, Guatemala, Howler Monkeys, Landscape, Maya, Nature, Photography, Topoxte, Toucan, Travel, Wilderness, Wildlife, Yaxha .

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12th April: Patagonia (Peninsula Valdes)

Today we piled into a bus for a trip to Peninsula Valdes, a world heritage area due to its wildlife.

Our wildlife encounters started in the carpark when we arrived. This is a zorro or Patagonian Fox. Actually not a true fox, it is a member of a South American genus intermediate between dogs and foxes.

We were also met by small armadillos (zorritos), completely unafraid of humans and nuzzling determinedly into packs and pockets in search of food.

A handsome zorro or patagonian fox. Both the zorros and the zorritos were fruitlessly cruising the carpark looking for handouts. They must get some or they wouldn’t be there, though there were of course notices prohibiting it.

The zorritos were scuttling around like clockwork toys on steroids.

Further on from the carpark, near the edge of the water, there were several colonies of sea lions, all females and pups.

Here, beyond the kelp gulls, we see a female who has been calling pups to her. This might be related to potential danger from orcas in the water.

Turkey vulture overhead.

In the distance are two colonies of sea lions, with attendant gulls. There is also a French film crew, nestled above the second colony.

There were a few elephant seals on the beach, as here with a sea lion pup in front.

Sea Lions.

A sea lion parliament, perhaps.

Photographers waiting for action. Peninsula Valdes is one of the two areas in the world where orcas deliberately beach themselves trying to snaffle seals (the other is a French subantarctic island). They go after the pups, mainly sea lions or perhaps elephant seals.

An elephant seal pup and sea lions in the foreground.

We didn’t see any beachings but the orcas cruised past late in the afternoon, shortly before we had to return to the ship.

(That’s a cormorant behind the orca that is showing a bit of tail as it goes down).

… And so they passed on through …..

… and all the sea lion pups got to survive on this day….

On the bus on the way there and back we saw guanacos, rheas and maras. Maras are small animals related to cavies or guinea pigs and one of their forms of locomotion (which we observed from the bus) was a peculiar one called “stotting” where they bounce around on stiff legs as though they have had a sudden attack of tetanus and the ground is electrified.

6th April: Falkland Islands (Grand Jason and Steeple Jason Islands)

Today was our day to investigate the Jason Islands, a small group of islands at the north-west tip of the Falklands that is seldom visited, partly due to difficulty of landing.

We woke up to a fine day with some cloud but that didn’t mean it was calm.  35 knot winds prevented us from landing at our first intended landing place of Grand Jason Island so we proceeded to Steeple Jason Island, the most westerly island in the group.  In the afternoon the weather became more calm and we were able to land there.

Steeple Jason has the largest colony of black-browed albatrosses in the world, with 187,000 pairs and unusually, the numbers are increasing.

Grand Jason Island, a few minutes after dawn, a cormorant in the sky

Steeple Jason Island

Steeple Jason Island

There are many rookeries of albatrosses and penguins on bare rock near the coasts of the island. This is a closer view of one, lower mid island in the previous image, mainly penguins in this case with a few albatrosses. Click on the image for more detail.

The rough coastline

Island peaks in cloud

One corner of Steeple Jason Island

A vertical slice of the island near where we landed in the zodiacs

The horizontal panorama above does not fit any larger on this page.  There are very many birds in the air over the point, including a giant petrel trailing its wing in the water, and huge numbers of birds beyond the rocks on shore.

The vertical panorama at the right could fit larger on the page but would take up too much space.

To see either of them “properly”, click on them and a window will open with much more detail that you can zoom in and out of and scroll around in.

In that new window, first click the lower right icon for a full window, then use the mouse wheel or other icons to zoom in and out.  It’s also better to back off a little from the full resolution that you can get in these screens.

5th April: Falkland Islands (Carcass Island)

This morning we arrived at Carcass Island.  On arriving on the Island we were greeted by the residents Rob & Wendy McGill and treated to an amazing morning tea with vast array of delectables including ginger biscuits, neenish tarts and lamingtons.

We also received an enthusiastic welcome from the inquisitive cara caras (a small Falklands raptor also known as Johnny Rook there) who quickly volunteered to be guardians of our equipment.

Cara caras

Cara cara

Cara Cara

Cara caras settling who gets to try on the boots

Most of our expeditions have involved trekking off to commune with mass aggregations of wildlife.  This morning was more a case of sitting down quietly somewhere and waiting for the wildlife to come to you.  Apart from the cara caras, for me this included cormorants, ducks, a night heron, upland geese and gentoo penguins.  The cormorants were in great numbers around the wharf and the ducks could be amazingly well camouflaged amongst the debris on the beach.  Returning to the ship provided a bumpy ride and then an exciting moment or two as the zodiac rose or fell three or four feet from the landing platform on each wave.

Falklands steamer duck

Night heron

Kelp Gull

Rock Cormorants (bonding)

Four ducks camouflaged amongst flotsam and jetsam