Monochromes from Chania and Rethymnon

Crete, Greece, 12 October 2018.

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Links go to colour posts (with information and historical context). If an image does not have a link, the preceding one applies.

(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

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Archaeology, Architecture, Black and White, Crete, Gortyn, Greece, Heraklion, Knossos, Landscape, Matala, Monochrome, Photography, Street photography, Travel, Zakros

Looking across Chania Harbour.

Chania Harbourside.

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Giali Tzami (Mosque of the Seaside).

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Street musicians.

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Elegant harbour-side transport, with a female driver aged maybe eight.

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Chania lighthouse.

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Near our lodging on the first night.

On the Streets of Chania.

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Main hall, Archaeological museum of Chania.

Archaeological Museum of Chania.

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Roman mosaic featuring Dionysus and Ariadne.

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The mosaic further on in the main hall.

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Remains of a Venetian lion.

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The Presentation of the Virgin Mary Holy Metropolitan Church.

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Streetscape with cat.

On the Streets of Chania.

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No. 27.

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The lock of a door.

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On the street.

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Old door.

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Passing by an old façade.

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Ottoman Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han, formerly the Catholic Cathedral of St Nicholas.

Rethymnon Fortezza.

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Councillor’s residence, possible mausoleum and Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han.

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The square openings in the walls were presumably emplacements for cannon.

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Cannons not currently in use.

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The remains of  a series of food storerooms and water cisterns.

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Ottoman era.  I suspect these are tombstones.

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The old Venetian harbour and lighthouse.

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On the Streets of Chania

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 to 20 October 2018.

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(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

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Chania has been a settlement for 5,000 years and a city for at least 3,500.  I found the different layers of age fascinating.

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Near our lodging on the first night.

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Most of these buildings I have no idea of their age or provenance.

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A closer look.  the sun has gone behind a cloud.

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Many parts of the old city have no cars, so in others parking is probably hard to find.

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Streetscape with cat.

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Streetscape with cat.

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No. 27.

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No. 4.

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Streetscape with cat.

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The lock of a door.

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On the street.

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We stopped here for lunch.

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Street scenes….

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Archaeological Museum of Chania

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 October 2018.

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We are in the Archaeological museum of Chania, located inside the former Venetian Monastery of St Francis and housing Minoan and Roman artefacts.  It is not clear when the building was constructed but it was recorded as surviving the earthquake of 1595.  It became a mosque during the Ottoman occupation, then for a while a storehouse for military equipment and a museum in 1962.  In 2000 it closed and in 2022 a new and larger modern museum opened outside the city centre.

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At the end of the main hall we see mosaics and statues.

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Roman mosaic featuring Dionysus and Ariadne.

This is the first large mosaic on the floor in the previous image.  Obviously, I couldn’t take it from above and I didn’t quite allow enough to get the whole mosaic circle in after correcting for perspective.

Dionysus is the Roman god of wine and festivity.  Ariadne is a mythological Minoan princess who helped Theseus escape from the labyrinth, was later abandoned by him and subsequently married Dionysus.

Dionysus is depicted between two satyrs, his companions in hedonism, one of whom is Selinus.  It demonstrates the moment he found Ariadne sleeping on the foreshore of the Island of Naxos, after she was abandoned by Theseus.

The mosaic was found near the market square of Chania in 1977.  It is from the second half of the 3rd century AD.

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The mosaic further on in the main hall.

It shows Poseidon rescuing Amymone after she was attacked by a satyr.  From mid third century and found in 1937.  It was in the central dining room of an ancient private house.

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Another mosaic in a side chamber.

It is described as showing Dionysus on a panther followed by a satyr.  I can see the satyr but not the panther.  From 3rd century AD and found in 1977.

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Out the back, this must be a Venetian lion dismembered by the Ottomans or maybe by an earthquake.

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Late Minoan III (1650 to 1600BC) bath tub used as a coffin.

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Minoan liquid container, presumably for water or wine.

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In the back garden again.

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A remarkable succulent growing up a wall.

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I don’t have a description for this but I presume it is Minoan.

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Marble vase from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

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Marble vases from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

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Clay vase from Elyros, near Sougia, 3rd century BC.

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Clay pyxis from Chamber tomb at Aptera (near Chania).  Late Minoan IIIB 1300-1250BC.

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Jewellery of the Hellenistic period (end of 4th to 3rd century BC).

Found in the cemetery of ancient Kydonia (modern Chania), for a dead woman to wear in the afterlife.

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The Presentation of the Virgin Mary Holy Metropolitan Church.

There was a small church here from the 11th century.  Later, the Venetians demolished it for a warehouse.  Under the Ottomans it became a soap factory until 1850 when it was donated to the Christians.  In the late nineteenth century it became the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Chania, which was then the capital of Crete.

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This is above the central door you see in the previous image.

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Inside the Cathedral.

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A panel inside the Cathedral.

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Archaeological excavation of Ancient Kydonia.  Settlement occurred from late Neolithic around 3000BC through Minoan, Greek and Roman to 365AD when Kydonia was levelled by an earthquake.  What we see here is for the late Minoan period around 1450BC.

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Chania Harbourside

Chania, Crete, Greece, 19 October 2018.

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(Click on any image to see it in a larger size, if you are on a PC or tablet at least.)

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Looking across Chania Harbour.

We’d arrived the previous evening after driving from Sougia (previous post) and were staying nearby in the old city.

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Giali Tzami (Mosque of the Seaside), taken from the same spot.

This was the first mosque built in Chania, in 1649, shortly after the Ottoman takeover.  After the last Moslems left in 1923 (following the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922), it became first a museum and then an art gallery.

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Chania lighthouse.

The original lighthouse was built by the Venetians between 1595 and 1601.   It was destroyed in1645 after the Ottoman takeover.  It was rebuilt by Egyptian troops under the Ottoman Empire in 1864, upon the original base.  Crete had been run by Mohammed Ali of Egypt from 1830 to 1840, during the time when he had built an empire inside the Ottoman Empire.

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Street musicians.

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The Firka Fortress.

It was built in 1629 by the Venetians to protect the harbour from invaders such as the Ottomans who turned up in 1645.  A chain could be raised across the harbour mouth from the fortress to the lighthouse.

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A submarine in Chania Harbour?

No, not really but you can go inside it and view underwater through glass windows.

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Harbour wall and a glass-bottom boat.

My guess is that there were cannons on the wall and the small building was the ammunition store.

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Elegant harbour-side transport.

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A reflection in the water (you probably worked that out).

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Walking beside the Neoria or dockyards.

The Neoria were for maintenance of ships.  There is a long history of such structures and there were similar ones in Carthage for example.  The first ones were built by the Venetians in 1204, when Venice occupied Crete following the Latin conquest of Byzantium during the Fourth Crusade.  By 1607 there were twenty-two Neoria.  This row of seven survive, plus another single one further west.

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Is it a fishing boat or a street market?

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View across a flotilla of moored small boats to the Neoria.

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Another elegant harbour-side transport, this time with a female driver aged maybe eight.

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Minaret and bell tower behind the Neoria.

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Harbour-side views.

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A view of the lighthouse from walking along the harbour wall (there was no entry).

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Looking back along the harbour wall.

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Walls with perhaps many stories to tell.

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Boats and Neoria.

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Fishing boat and nets.

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The Grand Arsenal of Chania.

This is a long building because it was originally one of the Neoria, built around 1585.  It was converted to a conventional building in the mid nineteenth century and a second floor added in 1872.  It was damaged by German bombing in the Second World War and reconstructed in 2002.  It is now the Centre of Mediterranean Architecture and  hosts events, conferences, theatrical performances, workshops and concerts.

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The pseudo-submarine at the harbour mouth.

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The water in the harbour is surprisingly clear.

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A last look at the lighthouse….
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Chania and Rethymnon.

Sougia to Chania, Chania, Rethymnon, Crete, Greece, 17th October 2018.
Temporary Post. Brief image descriptions and no commentary.

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Chapel on a distant hilltop between Sougia and Palæochora.

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Palæochora

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Village in Eastern Crete.

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Church near Amigdalokefali, looking to Akra Koutouloz peninsula.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Village in Eastern Crete.

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Chania.

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Kuzuk Hasan Mosque, Chania.

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The Venetian/ Ottoman lighthouse, Chania.

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Street performers, Chania

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Chania Harbour and Venetian dry docks.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Grand Arsenal, Chania.

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Chania lighthouse.

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Chania at night.

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Roman mosaic.

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Chania backstreets.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Venetian Fortezza, Rethymnon.

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel .

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Archaeology, Architecture, Chania, Crete, Greece, History, Landscape, Photography, Rethymnon, Street photography, Travel

Venetian Harbour, Rethymnon.

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