Northern Unst

Unst, Shetland, Scotland. Day 30, 28th July 2013.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

Not far from Muness Castle, this is Eyea Breck or Clivocast Standing Stone, around ten feet high.  According to local legend, it marks the spot where a son of the Viking King Harold Harfager (or Harold Fairhair) died around 900AD and he is buried nearby.   When Harold became King of all Norway, many of his opponents fled to other lands including Shetland, Orkney, the Faeroes and Iceland.  His son probably died in one of the battles subduing a rebel lord.   I don’t know the name of the son and Harold had around twenty.  However, the stone is of course Neolithic and probably four to five thousand years old.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

Here, on the side of the road, a bus shelter doubling as a charming community art gallery.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

Near Haroldswick, close to the northern end of Unst, a recreated Viking longhouse.

 

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.. and next to it, a replica Viking galley.  I can’t find the reference now but I recall reading that a crew rowed it from Norway and had intended to row further but ended up abandoning it here.

 

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As you can see on the deck, it is starting to rain.

 

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Not the easiest of vessels to steer I would surmise.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

A little further on, the ruins of a church beside the road.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

This was my intended destination, Hermaness Nature Reserve, and you can see the Visitor Centre in the distance.  By now the rain was quite constant.

I had hoped to go for a walk and catch a glimpse of Muckle Flugga, a picturesque group of rocks with a Stevenson lighthouse on top, at the northernmost tip of the Shetlands.   I had raingear, a raincover for my pack and one for my camera.  However, at the Visitors Centre there were signs warning against going for a walk in the rain wearing rain gear.  Someone in the last few years had fallen over on the path in the rain and slid on the smooth grassy surface over the edge of a cliff.  So I desisted and turned back.  It may have been just as well because I still had a long way to drive to return to Sumburgh at the south end of Mainland, where I was staying that night prior to a flight the next morning.

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Haroldswick, Hermaness Nature Reserve, History, Landscape, Ness of Sound, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Viking galley, Yell

The drive from the top of Unst to the bottom of Mainland is a voyage across Unst, Yell and Mainland together with two ferry rides.  This is the Ness of Sound, an “island” connected by a tombolo to the south western coast of Yell.

 

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Here is an interesting sight next morning, on the plane to Aberdeen.  An image of the plane, created by the sun and layers of clouds like a giant camera obscura, and surrounded by a rainbow.

 

References for Shetland:

  • Jill Slee Blackadder: Shetland
  • Robin Holmes: The Holiday Planning guide to Shetland
  • David W Moore: The Other British Isles
  • Undiscovered Scotland .

Muness Castle

Unst, Shetland, Scotland. Day 30, 28th July 2013.

 

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Muness Castle is named after Mu Ness, a nearby headland.  It was built in 1598 by Laurence Bruce, half brother to Earl Robert Stewart (sharing the same mistress of James V as mother).

 

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In 1571 Earl Robert appointed Laurence as Foud (anglicised as Sheriff) of Shetland.  Laurence developed an unenviable reputation for corruption and cruelty.   He undertook acts of piracy on passing shipping, changed weights and measures to increase his income and fathered 24 local illegitimate children by imposing feudal “rights” on local women.

He was removed from his post in 1577 after complaints from residents led to a Commission that visited Shetland and took evidence from 700 male Shetlanders.  Notwithstanding this finding and a prohibition by the Commission of his further living in Northern Scotland (i.e. north of the River Tay), Laurence returned the next year when he was appointed Sheriff-Depute by Earl Robert.

 

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After Robert died in 1593, Laurence did not have such good relations with Robert’s son Earl Patrick Stewart and this led to building Muness Castle in 1598.  In 1608, Earl Patrick turned up with 36 men and artillery, intent on destroying the castle, but withdrew for unknown reasons before completing the task.  Laurence was amongst those who testified against Earl Patrick in his trial in 1610 and he died in his bed in 1617.

 

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This is a cottage very close to the castle, with an adjoining dry wall shed that seems to have fallen into disrepair.

 

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The castle was sacked by French raiders in 1627 and though rebuilt was no longer occupied by the end of that century.  It was finally abandoned in 1750 and the roof had disappeared by 1774.

 

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The way in to the gate is mown and you can see the entrance door behind the wall to the right of the gate.

 

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This is how the castle may have looked in 1600.  The top floor and the roof are now missing.

 

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Above the main door is a nearly obliterated coat of arms and an inscription that reads (after translation from archaic spelling):

Listen you to know this building who began
Laurence the Bruce he was that worthy man
Who earnestly his heirs and offspring prays
To help and not hurt this work always.

He had good reason to be nervous about the longevity of the castle.

 

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This is the kitchen, on the ground floor.

 

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This is a chamber, or bedroom, also on the ground floor.  You can see from the circular walls that it is in one of the towers at each end of the building.

 

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Stairway to the second floor.

 

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This is the main fireplace in the great hall on the second floor.

 

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Here is what that hall may have looked like when in use.  I would think that peat was a more likely fuel than logs, though.

 

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This is a chamber or bedroom on the first floor, once again in one of the towers.  You can see where the floor was for the floor above.

 

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This is probably the smallest window you are ever likely to see, on the first floor, intended for use by musketeers.

 

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Looking through to the Great Hall, and the doorway to the room beyond.

 

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A double window this time, one for the view and one for the musket.

 

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The Lord’s Private Withdrawing Room, off the Hall with a private staircase leading to his chambers above.  The gaps in the surface of the wall are where the front of a chimney has fallen away.

 

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A different “double window” in the larger circular tower.

 

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Looking straight up in the tower.

 

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Probably the stairway to the no longer extant second floor.

 

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A different stairway, also closed, looking down.

 

Grenwell’s Booth, Uyeasound

Unst, Shetland, Scotland. Day 30, 28th July 2013.

With my extra day in Shetland I decided to head for Unst, the northernmost island. Getting there required driving across the island of Yell. My main objectives were Muness Castle and Hermaness Reserve.

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Muness Castle is in the South-East corner of Unst.  On the way there I stopped at the tiny village (and bay) of Uyeasound (I have no idea how the locals pronounce that).

 

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This is Greenwell’s Booth, in the village of Uyeasound.  It is a trader’s store and warehouse, for goods arriving and departing by sea.  It was built in 1646 by William Bruce, presumably a relation of Laurence Bruce who built the nearby Muness Castle (next post) fifty years earlier.

 

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Archaeology, Architecture, Grenwell's Booth, History, Landscape, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Uyeasound

 

 

Archaeology, Architecture, Grenwell's Booth, History, Landscape, Photography, Scotland, Shetland, Travel, Unst, Uyeasound

 

 

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This abandoned farmhouse is a short distance away from Uyeasound, very close to Muness Castle.  It probably incorporates stones from the castle as construction materials.