From Port Dauphin to Tana and Beyond

28th to 29th October 2015. Port Dauphin to Antananariva, Madagascar.

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Continuing on from the previous post, still in Port Dauphin, we walked up the hill behind the wharf area and along some of the streets of town back to our hotel.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

This is an abandoned building on the street we were walking down. Across one of those doorways, I think the far one, was a web and an absolutely enormous spider which must have been a Golden Orb Spider.  I did take a photograph but I didn’t get the focus right.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Over the road was a small shop with this delightfully colourful display.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Major street including a three-wheeled tuk-tuk.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

The last image from Port Dauphin. After returning to the hotel we headed for the airport.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

So, now we’re in the air and just outside Port Dauphin.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Clouds en route.

I had heard lots of stories about Air Madagascar, initially known as Air Mad until they decided that might not be such a good name.  Arbitrarily delayed flights, poor service, inadequately maintained planes, overbooking.  We did get to the airports with lots of time to spare but we didn’t encounter any of that.  The planes were fairly new and the service was fine.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

On the outskirts of Tana now.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

After landing, we headed off to a rather nice old hotel but I didn’t take any images there.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Next morning, I took these images on the way to the airport from the vehicle.

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Aerial Photography, Antananarivo, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travelt

That was the last image from Madagascar though I will post some monochromes much later.

I was about to undertake an epic air journey from Antanariva to Johannesburg to Abu Dhabi to Sao Paulo to Santiago (Chile) to Punta Arenas to Mount Pleasant (Falklands) to Pebble Island.  More of that much later including images from Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and the Atacama Desert.  But now I am off on another trip and posting will greatly decrease, especially as some places will have no internet.  More on that in the next post….

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The Rusting Port

28th October 2015. Port Dauphin, Madagascar.

In the morning of the 28th, we went for a walk that ended up at the port.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

Above the port, a number of shacks where poor people live.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

And here we have the jetty of this mighty metropolitis.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

Getting closer, some of the canoes stacked up beside the wharf.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

No idea what this huge metal bowl was for.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

More canoes…

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

On the other side of the wharf is a rusted wasteland that probably speaks of a time when the activity at the port was of a much larger scale.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

And here is a truck ready to take travellers to the interior, probably available at a very cheap rate from anyone who happens to be hanging around.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

… though there may be some limitations as to comfort.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

There is also some very large wharf-side machinery.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

… though perhaps not in the best of condition.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

As we get closer…

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

… the details become more interesting.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

 

Either this is the effect of rust or the manufacturers have gone to great lengths to achieve a post-modern effect.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel

A few other vehicles were available too.

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Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Rust, Street photography, Travel .

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Berenty to Port Dauphin

27th October 2015. Berenty to Port Dauphin, Madagascar.

Returning from Berenty to Port Dauphin….

Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Some people, perhaps farms workers, on top of a truck heading in the other direction.   He was asking for water but unfortunately, by the time I worked that out, I was too slow to respond.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

A family in their zebu cart.

I might take this opportunity to quickly summarise a book, In Search of the Red Slave, that I read prior to going to Madagascar.  It uses current on-the-ground research to validate a story first published in 1729 and ghost-written by none other than Daniel Defoe.

The protagonist, Robert Drury, was 15 and returning from India in 1703 when the ship he was in went down on the south coast of Madagascar.  The crew were rescued by a local tribe and well treated but were not free.  They decided to kidnap the local chief as a hostage and made for Port Dauphin, but didn’t make it.  They all ended up killed except for Robert Drury and a couple of other youngsters.  He was taken back to the village and made a slave.  After some years he became a respected warrior and was allowed a wife.

He wasn’t satisfied with this and escaped to a tribe to the west that he had encountered in a joint military campaign.  He was welcomed there but after a few more years he was taken in battle by another tribe further to the north.  Initially he was enslaved again but after some time became relatively free again.  Word of his survival had made it back to London and eventually he was rescued by a ship sent out to look for him.  At this stage he had effectively forgotten how to speak English.  He spent some years in London where Defoe wrote up his journal.  This was widely dismissed as fiction in the following years but this book demonstrates how details can only have been authentic.  Ironically, he became dissatisfied with life in London and returned to Madagascar – but this time not as a slave but as a slave trader.

The book is well worth reading for its account of tribal life at the time and the harshness and perils of life there today.  The area in the South where Drury lived are much further to the west, much more remote and much drier than where I visited.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

A very overloaded taxi brousse.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Back at the river, where we passed by on the way out.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Just past the bridge and the river, we are passing through the town of Ambossary Sud.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel .

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Obviously out of town now, passing a village.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Not far from Port Dauphin now and a herd of zebu on the road.

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Antananarivo, Berenty, Landscape, Madagascar, Photography, Port Dauphin, Street photography, Travel

Inside Port Dauphin and an enterprising bicycle rider.

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A Conspiracy of Lemurs

27th October 2015. Berenty, Madagascar.

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On our last morning at Berenty, this is also my last wildlife post from Madagascar.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Yellow-billed Kite.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Ring-tailed lemurs.

Elephant birds would likely have roamed this region in previous centuries.  They were three metres high and weighed half a tonne and survived until at least the seventeenth century.  Much of the year they lived in the mountains but came down to the sand of the south coast to lay their eggs.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Natural cactus garden.  Actual colours.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

They look like funghi but they’re flatid leaf bugs.  Click on the image to see them closer.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Chameleon.  Species unidentified.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

A conspiracy of lemurs.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite .

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Octopus trees.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Octopus trees and scrub.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Sportive lemur.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Baobab, probably Adansonia za.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

A clump of Alluaudia Procera or Madagascar Ocotillo, also known as Octopus Tree, showing the habitat and especially for Jeni (Skyscapes for the Soul), following a comment in an earlier post.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

A clump of the cacti common in the area.

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Alluaudia Procera, Berenty, Chameleons, Flatid Leaf Bugs, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Sportive Lemur, Travel, Wildlife, Yellow-billed Kite

Where once was spiny forest, lemurs and other wildlife, now is sisal plantations and no wildlife.  I wonder whether this is also a plantation crop grown by a foreign company with little or no benefit to the local population.

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Spiny Forest Dreaming

27th October 2015. Berenty, Madagascar.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife

With my time in Berenty drawing to a close, I dreamt in the ethereal spiny forest.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife

Ring-tailed lemurs eating or drawing moisture from cacti.

It’s a photograph of course and therefore completely realistic in all respects.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife

Ringtails in front of the cacti.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife

This is what it may look like to a chameleon….

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlife

… such as this one.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Spiny Forest, Travel, Wildlifet .

(All IR).

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Dream Lemurs

26th October 2015. Berenty, Madagascar.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Some images of lemurs in their dream worlds.

A Verraux’s sifaka looking up.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Ringtailed lemur on the ground.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Verraux’s sifaka looking down.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Ringtailed lemur.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Ringtailed lemur hanging out.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Verraux’s sifakas more deeply in their dream world.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlifet .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Very young Verraux’s sifaka.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

Ringtails.

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Infrared, Landscape, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Travel, Wildlife

And a last Verraux’s sifaka looking down on us.

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(All IR)

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Sakalava Weavers and Dancing Sifakas at Berenty

26th October 2015. Berenty, Madagascar.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

Sakalava weavers and their hanging nests (there is only one bird visible but there are others inside the nests).

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

White man’s burden?  Ringtailed lemur sitting on wooden sculpture.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

Plants from the desert garden near the cabins.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlifet .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

… and also, a chameleon….

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

More dancing sifakas, this one coming straight towards me.

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife .

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Berenty, Chameleons, Landscape, Macro, Madagascar, Nature, Photography, Ringtailed Lemur, Sakalava weavers, Spiny Forest, Travel, Verraux's Sifaka, Wildlife

… and finally, one on a roof.

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