Grytviken Part 2

12th November 2015. Grytviken, South Georgia.

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(Map of journey . . . . (4. Grytviken)).

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Continuing the walk from the last post, here is an elephant seal bull recovering from a challenge for a harem.  Whaling detritus behind.  They used to hunt elephant seals as well as whales.

 

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Another male elephant seal lurking in the shallows.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Whalebones that have probably been there a very long time.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Remains of a ship that wasn’t going anywhere soon.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Shackleton’s tombstone.

For those who aren’t aware of the history:  Sir Ernest Shackleton launched an expedition to walk across Antarctica, from one ship to another, via the South Pole, in 1914, just before the first World War started.  Unfortunately, his ship was crushed in pack ice in the Weddell Sea before they got to land.  They left the ship and camped on the ice floe until it began to break up so they sailed 560 kilometres in three ship’s lifeboats to reach Elephant Island off the Antarctic Peninsula.  Elephant Island was seldom visited by ships though, so Shackleton had one of the ship’s boats strengthened and with five others set of on a 1,300 kilometre journey to whaling stations on South Georgia, where he would find help.  They survived a savage storm that sunk a 500-ton ship in the general area, to land on the south coast of South Georgia.  Rather than try to sail round, in another incredible feat, Shackleton and two others climbed over the the mountains to reach assistance on the other side.  Eventually, all were rescued and the only death was a sailor who was injured when the ship was crushed.

He died on board ship in harbour in South Georgia in 1921 at the start of another expedition and was buried there.

The 1914-1916 expedition was also remarkable for the photographs of Frank Hurley.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Once a whaleboat.  I’d turned around by this stage, back towards the zodiacs.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

It’s no surprise from this view that Grytviken is the most sheltered harbour in South Georgia.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I head back past the whaling ship “Petrel” again.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… and past the decaying factories of death….

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

They might look like elephant tusks in the foreground but they are the rib bones of whales.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Still chained to the past…

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… and walking past more rusted relics of a less than memorable past.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Almost back where we started, now.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Waiting zodiacs, whale bones and dead ships.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

And here he is, still in place, the King Penguin from the beginning of the previous post.

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Grytviken Part 1

12th November 2015. Grytviken, South Georgia.

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(Map of journey . . . (4. Grytviken)).

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

We are now approaching the great metropolis of Grytviken, in fact the only place in South Georgia where the population is greater than zero, not counting seals and penguins.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

A closer view.  A small number of British scientists live here, though Argentina briefly captured the place in the early eighties.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

A king penguin was hanging around on shore, on the somewhat muddy ground.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I was not the only person to photograph him (or her).

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

These I believe are casings for the explosive heads of harpoons, fired from harpoon guns at the front of whaling ships.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

This place is probably a paradise for scrap metal dealers, were they allowed to remove anything.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Grytviken was founded in 1904, initially as a Norwegian whaling station.  It closed in 1965 when virtually all the whales were gone and in the intervening period processed 53,800 slaughtered whales.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Many relics of that period remain.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I would think that the purpose of this huge pile of massive chains was to haul whale carcasses ashore.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

… though in this case, to anchor a ship.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

Ancient machinery whose purpose probably doesn’t bear too much thinking about.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I went for a walk along the shore quite a way past the settlement.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

There are also remains of various wharves….

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

I understand the road accident casualty rate is quite low on South Georgia, much lower than India for example (though actually they usually drive pretty slowly in India in my experience).  For all I know, this may be the only vehicle on the island.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

There are also a couple of old ships moored beside the bay.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

This one is an old whaling ship.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

You can see that the end of the harpoon does appear similar to the rusted sections we saw further above.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife

And finally, here are a few shots of rust and paint on the side of the ship.

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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Grytviken, King Penguins, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Rust, seascape, South Georgia, Travel, Whaling, Wilderness, Wildlife .

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