Waimea Canyon

Kauai, Hawaii, 1 March 2015

Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

All the images in this post are of Waimea Canyon from viewpoints near the Waimea Canyon Road.  This first image is a multi-image panorama.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Both this and the first image are from the Waimea Canyon Lookout, the first you encounter going up the road.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Now we have driven on and are at the Pu’u O Kila Lookout, at the end of the road, overlooking the Kalalau Valley.  Down there is the end of the Kalalau Trail.  This is a spectacular 18 kilometre (11 miles) walk that you enter from Ke’e Beach, as we did for a kilometre or two the previous day.  If you do the full trail, you walk out again the same way.  It can be quite dangerous especially after rain and people do die there, particularly in swollen creek crossings and precarious cliff tracks.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Two more images of the hills overlooking the valley, which would be a ridge of (Mt) Kilohana, 4,000 feet high (1,220 metres).

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Back down to the Waimea Valley Lookout for the sunset, such as it was.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

The road along the ridges above the valley is narrow and winding and has what seemed to me an absurdly low speed limit of 25mph or 40kph.  Mind you, the other thing I couldn’t understand was that all the rental cars have automatic transmission.  On winding roads and on steep downhill inclines you have so much more control with a manual transmission and also you aren’t so reliant on the brakes.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Kauai is the oldest island in the Hawaiian group and thus has had more time to erode.  This was accentuated by rifts and collapse of the central volcano.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

In the centre of the island is the highest mountain in Kauai, the inactive shield volcano Waialeala.  Its peak, Kawaikini, is at 5,200 feet or 1,600 metres.  It is also a place of particularly high rainfall, averaging around 11.5 metres per year, another factor in the spectacularly eroded valleys.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Waimea Canyon is also known as “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific”.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

The waterfall that you can see in the distance we will see a closer view of in a couple of posts time.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

Waimea means “red water”, in consequence of the red soil of the canyon.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

The many bare patches is no doubt a reference to a high level of erosion.

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness .

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Hawaii, Kauai, Landscape, Nature, Photography, Travel, Waimea Canyon, Wilderness

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McBryde Botanical Garden (and a little history)

Kauai, Hawaii, 1 March 2015

We weren’t able to go to the Limahuli Botanical Garden the previous day in the north but today we visited the McBryde Botanical Garden in the south.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

This is the Allerton Garden which adjoins the McBryde Garden on the seaward end of a valley.  However the Allerton Garden is only accessible through a guided tour which takes four hours.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

So we opted for the McBryde Garden.  The access for this is hourly shuttlebus which goes past the Allerton Garden.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

The National Tropical Botanic Gardens (which runs both McBryde and Allerton Gardens) is an independent charity that undertakes projects to save rare and endangered plants around the world.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

Now in McBryde Garden, we look through a hanging vine, I think under a tree.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

Hibiscus waimeae subsp. waimeae (a local variety – I photographed the label).

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

I didn’t record this one, though.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

The central tree is introduced but I don’t remember the name.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel .

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

This is a hale halawai or meeting house.  Planting of taro terraces is proceeding in a garden behind it under traditional and culturally important trees such as hala, kou and milo.  Taro is one of the main traditional Hawaiian staple crops.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

I might take this cue to relate a little more of Hawaiian history.  Kamehameha I banned the sale of land to foreigners but did not ban their presence.  After all, he owed his military successes in large part to European firearms.  After he died in 1819, his wife Keopuolani became regent for the young Kamehameha II.  Within months and largely under her influence, the system of kapu was abolished, the power of the priests overthrown and temples destroyed.  A rebellion followed but was crushed in a decisive battle.  Missionaries arrived soon afterwards so Christianity became the new religion of the people and missionaries educated the children of the ali’i nui (high chiefs).

Kamahameha II died a few years later (of measles in London) and was succeeded by his younger brother who took the name Kamehameha III.  He ruled for nearly thirty years and introduced constitutional monarchy under two constitutions.  As part of his Westernising policies, he introduced private ownership of land in 1848.  This was largely intended to distribute land to commoners but it was not well implemented and the result was large land holding by Europeans including the sons of Missionaries.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

Throughout the nineteenth century, the native Hawaiian population greatly diminished due to European diseases and most of the kings died quite young.  By 1874, the Kamehameha dynasty had died out and Kalakaua succeeded to the throne.  While talented and intelligent, he amassed huge debts, particularly to the white planters.  In 1887, a group of planters enforced a “bayonet constitution” by gunpoint that removed most of the powers from the king and most of the voting rights from native Hawaiians.

He died in 1891 and was succeeded by his sister, the very capable Lili’uokalani.  She tried to reinstate some of the monarchial powers and merely provoked a coup by some planters,  illegally aided by an American Naval Captain and his troops.  She had sufficient armed troops to put down the coup, but chose not to do so, relying on the US Government to overturn the situation.  This had happened in 1843 when a coup by a British Captain was overturned five months later by the British Government.

In this case, US President Cleveland was sympathetic but no restitution occurred during his term.  The succeeding President McKinlay had imperialistic ambitions and was not sympathetic.  The coup plotters were never brought to heel and Hawaii was annexed in 1898.  This may still rankle with native Hawaiians but by now there would not be a lot they could do about it.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

The history is similar to Tahiti in some ways.  In Tahiti they were invaded first by Catholic missionaries (backed up by military threats if they expelled them) and then a French military invasion that they unsuccessfully resisted.  As in Hawaii it was the British they wanted to associate with and receive protection from.  In Easter Island, it was even worse.  The population was wiped out by mass kidnappings as well as disease and when Chile took over they lost all their land and were all but enslaved for many years.  Not a pretty thing, colonialism, even, as in the case of Hawaii, when practiced by a supposedly non-imperialist nation.

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Allerton Garden, Flowers, Hale Halawai, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, McBride Garden, National Tropical Botanical Garden, Photography, Travel

Pink Plumeria (Frangipani).

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Flowers in the Morning

Kauai, Hawaii, 1 March 2015

We were staying in Kauai at a 5-acre tropical flower farm so I took some photos of the flowers before we left for the morning….

Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Orchid (variety unknown).

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Ginger plant (also next two images).

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel .

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel .

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Coffee beans.

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Queen Emma Lily – See Rebecca’s comment below

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Protea (as for next two).

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel .

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel .

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Cup of Gold, also known as Golden Chalice Vine, Hawaiian Lily – See Rebecca’s comment below

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Coffee beans.

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Flowers, Hawaii, Kauai, Macro, Photography, Travel

Pink flowering begonia.

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Kauai North Coast

Kauai, Hawaii, 28 February 2015

Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

In our first full day on Kauai, we took off for the north coast.  On the way, this is Moloaa Bay, a secluded beach at the end of a side road past a handful of no doubt very expensive houses.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Lagoon, Moloaa Bay.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Kilauea Lighthouse at the north point of the island.  It was a Saturday and the lighthouse was closed so we were only able to get as close as a nearby lookout.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Driving back from the lighthouse, this is a view looking west along the coast.

At the next point there is a hotel complex.  The guidebook said there was a very nice beach there but the hotel complex have closed it off by the simple expedient of buying all the land and not providing any parking for visitors.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

We have driven probably beyond the distant headland you can partly see in the previous image.  We had hoped to visit Limahuli Botanic Garden but unfortunately that was closed as well.  We kept on going to the end of the road and were fortunate to snare a rare parking place in the end carpark.  We are now at Ke’e Beach.  The trees on the edge of the sand are still alive but their roots have been eroded by the tides and storms.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel .

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel .

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

This is a zebra dove, common in Hawaii, an introduced species.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

A grove of trees just behind the beach.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel .

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

The beaches in Hawaii often look idyllic but before you plunge in you should understand the risks – in this case: high surf, rip currents, sudden drop off, slippery rocks, strong current and waves break on ledge.  There was a lifeguard here and while we were at the beach he yelled out over a loudspeaker to warn a swimmer getting too close to the channel.  There is a coral reef here and though it may look calm on the surface, close to the channels through the reef there can be savage currents.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

We took off on the Kalalau Trail along the wild Na Pali Coast.  We were not intending to go far, just to a lookout.  Here is a view looking back towards the beach.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Rain is not unknown here.  A small waterfall beside the path.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

The vegetation is thick enough to provide a serious object to easy passage (in the absence of a path).

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

From the lookout, looking along the Na Pali Coast.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel .

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Hawaii,

A corner of the beach, now on the way back.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Looking up at the steep peaks above us.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

… and at surf breaking below us.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Back down at the beach, this is a moa.  You may have heard of the moa, the extinct giant ratite of New Zealand that could grow to 14 foot tall.  Well, I can confidently say that this is not one of those.  The Polynesians usually brought chickens with them (as well as dogs, pigs and inadvertently, rats) when they settled new islands.  In both Hawaii and Easter Island, and probably other islands, the islanders call the chicken moa.  According to Tim Flannery, the Maori brought chickens with them but they abandoned them and the chickens became locally extinct when the Maori discovered that the moa in their new home were much larger and tastier than the moa they had brought with them.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

Not far from Ke’e beach, a beckoning cavern.  Who knows how far you would get in a canoe.

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel .

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Hawaii, Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, Kilauea Lighthouse, Landscape, Moloaa Bay, Photography, Travel

And driving back along the north coast, a viewpoint over farm land and wilderness.

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Flying into Kauai

Oahu and Kauai, Hawaii, 27 February 2015

 

Hawaii, Infrared, Kauai, Landscape, Oahu, Pearl Harbour, Photography, Travel, Waikiki

On the flight from Hawaii to Kauai via Oahu I was able to snatch some images out the aeroplane window.  This is Honolulu Harbour, including a couple of four-masted sailing ships.  You may need to enlarge the image by clicking on it to see them.

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Hawaii, Infrared, Kauai, Landscape, Oahu, Pearl Harbour, Photography, Travel, Waikiki

Here is Waikiki, in full spectacular autumn glory (though it’s actually winter).

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Hawaii, Infrared, Kauai, Landscape, Oahu, Pearl Harbour, Photography, Travel, Waikiki

Now somewhat later and we are approaching Kauai, northern-most island in the Hawaiian islands group.

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Hawaii, Infrared, Kauai, Landscape, Oahu, Pearl Harbour, Photography, Travel, Waikiki

It can be an island of rugged contours.

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Hawaii, Infrared, Kauai, Landscape, Oahu, Pearl Harbour, Photography, Travel, Waikiki

Insofar as you can see it in the middle right, this is Lihu’e, the great metropolitis.

Infrared assists in these images in a practical sense to some extent as it can reduce distance haze.  The effect is totally realistic to the extent that if our eyes and brains were wired differently we might see it something like this too.  And who knows, maybe some people do.

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